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Peak Mountain 3

The Gold Standard

FA Jeff Baldwin, Matt Scullion, Nov. 23, 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Seven reddish-painted bolts protect this short but interesting overhanging route right of

Lycra Eater

. Start up

Lycra Eater

for a body-length until the first bolt can be reached on the right. Surmount the roof (crux), clip three more bolts then step left (at the route's 4th bolt) to climb steeper and better rock to the last bulge. Here we finished the climb by moving left to ring anchors just over the lip, which seemed awkward; it may be better to turn the bulge and continue up a slab to the past a tan-painted bolt to another set of ring anchors maybe 25 feet higher (you can’t see them, but they’re there). Also, there is a bolt that appears off-route left of the sixth bolt; we didn’t try to use it (maybe it’s for a variation off of

Lycra Eater

?). Grade may be height-dependent.

Location

See

Lycra Eater

, and Spencer's photo reproduced on this page showing the route in yellow.

Protection

Nine draws, unless you continue up the slab -- then take a few more and maybe some gear.


Routes in Higher Education Ridge, East Face


  1. 3
    The Gold Standard
    5.12a
    Sport