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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown Chossy Calcite Corner

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Description

Be warned, the rock quality on this route is poor when compared to other splitters at IC. Start by carefully mantling onto a choss block covered in choss. Enter a detached block double crack system climbing hands or thin hands or both. Place some cams in hollow sounding rock. Encounter some cupped hands calcite plagued by hollow rock on the left and right side of this crack. This is where you start cursing the guidebook for saying "Optional 4". While there were many places that other sized cams looked good, it was really only the fist+ size cracks that didn't have hollow rock on either side with the exception of a few spots. Make some more moves and then enter a fists/ow crack that brings you up under the roof. Curse the guide book again as you place a thin hands sized cam behind this #5 sized crack. Pull some amazing OW roof moves and wonder how this thing is only 5.10. At this point I broke a foothold off and it landed right on my belayers shoulder, luckily it was only around the size of a clementine, but it still did enough damage to cut our trip short. This route could use some cleaning and climbers should tread lightly. I would not climb this again and I would not recommend it to anyone who likes their belayer. The roof on this route would make it worth doing if not for the choss. One star.

Location

This route is located at the top of the trail to the right. You can identify it by the chossy red block at the base and a couple of detached blocks making a twin crack start. Looking up the crack you will see some calcite inside the crack reminding you to tape up. This thing has little calcite thorns in it, be warned. The route is capped by a burly lookin roof/bulge that block the site of the anchor.

Protection

hand sizes and 3x #4 to protect in places where there is no hollow rock.