The Righteous and the Wicked

Stick clip the first two bolts (up to the one in the black rock) and battle your way up the chossy start, which is actually quite fun once you figure out how to do it. Then climb the easy slab for two more bolts up to the steep headwall. From here it's continuous crimpers for a long time, with 3 distinct cruxs, all on tiny little holds. A new sequence discovered by Jason and Lee drops the grade a bit (bastards), but it's actually more fun than the way I did it. I almost bought the farm while cleaning this route. I was on the slab when I heard this whistling sound... half a second later, a rock the size of a toaster smashed by my feet about two feet away. I think I called it a day after that.

This route is just down the hill from Carp, Hagfish, etc., to the left of the huge obvious dihedral.

10 bolts, closed cold shut anchors