This magnificent pitch redefines classic. The climb is recognized by a seemingly impossible 12’ long 65 degree roof on the left side of the Warm Up Wall. From the ground looks nearly featureless, but is thankfully featured with incredible finger slots.

Pull through the amazing roof to a bit of a head scratcher at the lip. At the lip of the roof, clipp off a wickedly flared, yet somehow solid fist jam and cut your feet for a glorious jug roof pull. After the roof, weave around marvelous 5.10 and 5.11- to an airy finish. Clip bolts 1-3 with slings. The crux bolts have fixed draws to make projecting easy and low stress. Shorter folks will want a 3' stick clip to hang a sling off the third bolt (an easy task from a comfortable stance).

Getting down: Climb the route with a 70m rope. About halfway down (when you're almost out of rope), swing right to a new anchor located off route. Pull the rope from there and make a second lower (not rappel).

Gym Reaper

Jack the Ripper

The Taking Tree

Psycho Thriller

Global Warm-up

This is one epic route! There is no specific crux, instead, pretty much every third or fourth move is a committing 5.9 crux between jugs. The route was originally a R/X rated gear-only climb, but six or seven bolts were added at some point, making it a much more enjoyable 5.9 R-.

The route could definitely use a cleaning, and once it's sparkling clean, I think the quality rating will bump to four stars. This route is full on from the ground to the top.

This climb was first climbed by Zach on runnout gear, using the dead tree as a lower off anchor. He went back a few months later and put bolts in making it a good easy climb. Perhaps it's my bias, but I found a few mandatory offwidth moves near the last bolt, which I was very excited about.

Long and sustained face climbing. Difficult to read and slightly mossy with a little vegetation growing from the holds. The cruxy sequences on vertical rock make this route worth the climb. Hard for the grade without knowing where the good holds are over the bulges.

This is a new mega-pitch following an obvious corner right of Psycho Thriller.

the climbing is very diverse, engaging, and cryptic with around a dozen 5.10- sections that are all more of a brief puzzle than any burl and one very technical sequence moving past the 4th bolt.

The wall is mostly vertical or less than vertical and has very comfortable bolt spacing. It helps to back clean the first bolt and use a longer draws on the third so your only drag is 160’ of rope on the final slab sequence.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2. Warm-Up Wall