Right side of the pillar. Beautiful sculpted edges make the short stature worth it.

TP shortage

Quarantini

ElDoner

Circle the drain

Some Zoner (aka good things end)

Berylline

Hot Snakes

ElDente

FRESH POTS!

Left variation of TP shortage. Shares start/anchors. Has a fun heel-hook mantle.

Taking one of the most obvious lines, this thin and technical line snakes it's way up perfect rock on a blunt arete, and is best attempted with cool temps. The first half is a slab, and the crux comes in the vertical section, where a very specific and somewhat intricate sequence will get you through. A couple of slopers may spit you off after this, particularly if it's the middle of summer.

 I considered the big pilar to the left of the line off-route (except the hand crack at the very start), but I don't think it would really help you much. Some may be put off by sharp crimps at the start.

Climbs like a short, dacite sandstoner.  Stick clip the first bolt, establish and move left to some holes. While it looks like a giant piece of choss from the ground, you'll find the kebab is bullet. Perhaps a bit sharp in places.

A fun little romp on patina crimps and jugs that I wish came all the way to the ground. Thus is shares the unfortunate chossy start with Fresh Pots. Eventually steps across to the main wall for two bolts on some nice pockets. 

 Stick clip the first bolt (same as Fresh Pots).

Winslow wall crimping (this is what gets stars) to bizarro-J-tree questing up around the left side of the pillar. Higher up, start left of the bolts on the pillar for larger, more firmly attached holds. Somewhat more crumbly up high than I remembered.

 Doesn’t count unless you clip the chains off the xenolith.

Climb the first three bolts of Eldente, then break left, back cleaning the 3rd bolt on Eldente. Traverse the somewhat tenuous slab, briefly joining the crack before tackling the steep entrance moves to the obvious lichen-streaked headwall. The headwall is quite featured, but steeper than it looks and a bit pumpy. The traverse goes through a bit of poor rock that is pretty easily avoided.

After a corner stemming start, this route follows a system of steep huecos and slots out to a stellar finish on the arete. Despite a couple moves near the over-boiled grey dirt, the majority of this route is perfectly cooked, like a noodle stuck to the ceiling. Stemming much of the first half is the move.

 Would be four stars if I had gotten around to cleaning some poop out of a few jugs. Easily avoided.

A bit of weirdness and mediocre rock off the ground (start a bit left) leads to some steep crimps up the blunt arete. After this, weave around, staying to the left of the obvious shit rock on the second half with a few steep jugs and crimps to the chains. Apart from the start, the rock really good, as long as you stay on route ;). 

 Don't forget to make a fresh pot.

youtube.com/watch?v=fhdCslF…

A section of walls and pillars low on the west side. The same band of rock as half-pint peters out here. This is a nice little after work crag, as there is no reason to be up here before it catches shade around 2 pm. The cliff holds a small selection of slabs and wonderful arete features. There is a mix of quality and shit rock, but the routes mostly tackle the former category. Nearly all the first bolts are set up with a stick clip in mind, so bring one!

 While the bottom of the crag has some trees etc., you will be fully visible to hikers in the canyon while climbing on the routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Quarantini crag