High climb (25 ft) but doable V1.  Great for people who can fit in the chimney.

Chimney sweep

Pinky Jam

Locate the small cave-y part of the rock next to the chimney.  On the diagonal just above the cave is the starting point of the hands.  Quick move up to some crimps above the head.  There is a triangular slot ("pinky jam") just before the crux.  Crux is the jug about 9 feet up.  

From the Falcon Guide / Rock Climbing New Jersey: 

  Hemlock Fall is a picturesque waterfall in the center of the South Mountain Reservation. It is lined on both sides by cliffs similar to those at Watchung Reservation, except that the cliff are smaller, with easier climbing, and the rock is a bit more crumbly.  However, this location is quiet and peaceful on weekdays. On weekends, the spot should be avoided because of the crowds of picnickers.  Almost all of the climbing at Hemlock Falls is of easy to moderate difficulty.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hemlock Falls