Begin 15 feet left of "Cascada." Climb the low angle pocketed face past three bolts. Clip a 4th bolt and move up and left on good pockets, including a mono-digit, and dicey feet. After clipping the 5th bolt move right and pull through the bulge to large pockets and inclusions and two more bolts to the anchors.

Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout)

Inbred Hick Makin' Babies

Betty Does Brownsville

After the Deluge

Holy Mole

The Halfway House

Leather & Lace

Middle Earth

Pain at the Pump

Cascada

Pocket Change

Pick A Pocket

Sophie's Choice

Power Fingers

Bilbo Surfs Galveston

Rise and Shine

Brand X Top Rope Wall

Over the Hill Gang

Before The Storm

Hook 'em Horns

Laurel

Acme Top Rope Wall

Welcome to Texas Canyon

The Booty Route

Hennessy

Spider's Line

Begin climbing past a large block and up the slab on cobbles and pockets. The climbing gets better as the wall steepens, and leads to good pockets, positive edges on inclusions, and friction. At the top of the slab, as the wall steepens move up and left on large pockets incut edges. Continue on great pockets past a couple more bolts to the anchor. A great warmup and a nice long, well protected route at the 5.8 grade.

Pitch 1 (Inbred  Hick, 85ish ft): Chimney to the first bolt, or don't if feeling strong. Then, pull onto the face and climb a technical, vertical face. If it seems like the holds are running out, poke your head out just a little further to search for hidden pockets/crimps above. Gain a few good rests about halfway through, then pull another technical section at the top just before the anchors.

Pitch 2 (Makin' Babies, 65ish ft): Climb jugs all the way to the top of the Hatchery. The chains are in a good location to wander out onto the fairly flat top for a good view.

Boulder up the

initial

headwall on pockets, inclusions, and small edges, to a

featured

lower angled slab. Above the slab the wall steepens to pass a huge block and onto a steep pocketed headwall. Climb the headwall on pockets and cobbles. At the last bolt move left on a step through to the anchors. Upon its completion "Betty" became an

instant

classic.

Betty Direct...TR the wonderfully pocketed and featured face five feet left of Betty. Too

close

to Betty to bolt, but a fun route to be done on TR.

Fun movement on pockets on a steep face. Crux is figuring out the sequence when pulling over the bulge.

This route already exists in Addendum to the Guidebook.

Start close to vertical, and use the other side of the "canyon" to chimney if necessary. Quickly turns to slab on the apron and a short, easy trip to the anchors.

Climb the featured apron on knobs, inclusions, and pockets. Where the wall steepens use pockets to reach a shelf. Once established on the shelf use small two-finger pockets and  depressions to move up and left on the slab. Continue up the slab to a great pocket and the left side of the large hueco and the chain anchor.

"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" near the large bush/tree the corridor. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression, clip the bolt, and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a Fixe ring anchor with two bolts. A second pitch climbs the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past five more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are anchors equipped in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.

A steep and powerful sequence of moves lead past 6 bolts to where the angle eases. Continue up the face past a mid-anchor. Beyond he rings climb past another 7 bolts to the anchor.

Beware: a peregrine falcon or raptor appeared to be nesting around the 12th bolt. Oct. 23, 2021

Route Name: Cascada. Bolted perfectly for a 5.8 climber. Steep but plenty of holds and solution pockets. Several variations possible. This is probably the best quality climb at Texas Canyon. There is a belay station mid climb. After that the climb is 5.0.

This is the left of two routes that climb out of the narrowest part of the corridor. Climb the black patina  to a long reach, up and left, to two closely spaced pockets. Continue on pockets and inclusions to the anchor.

"Pick A Pocket" follows a left leaning line of bolts up a featured slab and pockets to a bulge. Four bolts protect the initial slab and bulge. Aim for a large polished grey cobble just above the bulge. Continue up left past three large inclusions and pockets which facilitate pulling through a series of three bulges with large, featured, inclusions and pockets. In terms of route finding, when in doubt go left. Six more bolts lead to an obvious, but committing crux, and the anchor equipped with Mussy Hooks.

A bouldery start leads up the featured face to amazing small pocket climbing around the right end of the roof, and a right trending series of small pockets. As the pockets end move left and onto the lower angle slab.

Please use a 70m rope and tie a knot in the end. An initial high bolt is easily clipped off a large left hand side pull. The crux is on positive crimps with poor feet around the 3rd bolt. Sneaky, sequential slab climbing on the upper half of the route leads you up and right to the anchor near the top of the cliff.

Begin climbing up a wide smooth crack-like feature with large cobbles and pockets. Climb to a high first bolt above the depression and continue up the apron to the base of the headwall. Move up and left on the ramp dto nice pockets on the steep bulging headwall. Climb the bulging headwall on shallow pockets and exciting features. Once above the bulge move up the featured slab to the arête. Gain the broad arête and move up and left to the anchor.dg

Climb small pockets, shallow scoops, and edges to the right of a large red inclusion. Move right on the ramp to a series of medium pockets that yield to a small horizontal shelf at mid-height. Once on the the shelf the wall bulges to slightly overhanging. Continue over the bulge on excellent, but spaced pockets to a large pocket on the right. From a stance in the pocket pull small 2-finger pockets and edges as the angle decreases. Finish the pitch on large pockets to the anchors.

Top rope on knobs and pockets. Good moderate face climbing. Many variations possible.

Begin climbing below the last step, left of the bush. Climb sandy crimps and pockets. Pull through a bulge right of the Before the Storm overhang. Continue climbing features and pockets left of a huge fractured block as the angle of the wall relents.

"Before The Storm" is located in The Canyon and is the fifth line of bolts on the west (left) side of the narrow shaded canyon formed by the Elephant's Head & the Hatchery. "Before The Storm" begins just downhill from where the base of the canyon slopes sharply downward, and uphill from the bush growing in the narrow portion of the canyon. Face climb up past three bolts to a bulge. Move up and right and over the bulge. Above the bulge the angle eases and numerous pockets lead up and slightly right to the top.

Climb the heavily cobbled, lower angled apron on the east wall of the First Corridor to a bulge. Pull the bulge on large pockets (be cautious of "nests") and cobbles. Above the bulge paddle up the slab to the base of the headwall and a low angle ramp. Move right on the ramp to reach two shallow pockets and pull up onto the headwall. Continue up and left on pockets and inclusions to a volleyball sized depression. The depression is surmounted using a variety of pockets and cobbles. Take your pick while you paste your feet on friable edges and protrusions to climb through the depression and the anchor.

Begin climbing just downhill from where the slope angles downhill. Pull a series of pockets and incuts as the line of bolts angles up and left. At the 3rd bolt move up and right as the line zigzaps across the face. At half the angle kicks back and tackles the upper slab on pockets and small inclusions to the chains.

To the right of Agua Negro are several TR anchors and 4 bolts leading up to one of the anchors. The bolted route is 5.7. The various top rope anchors in this area access climbing from 5.7 - 5.9. Climbing is on knobs and features with many good solution pockets. Whoever put the bolted route up the middle of Acme Top Rope Wall is welcome to post or advise on their name for the route.

The Booty Route climbs pockets, scoops, and edges on the steep west wall of The Canyon/east wall of The Hatchery. The route passes a bulge or small roof feature at mid-height. Surmounting the bulge directly is 5.11a, while moving left on juggy features is 5.10b. Above the bulge the angle decreases and the route follows the knobby slab to chains below a large cobble/block on the arête.

Begin climbing the broad slab between Brandy and Poke Salad Annie. Paddle up the slab on small pockets and features. As the wall steepens move right to gain grainy cobbles. Continue pulling small features and pockets to the Brandy anchor.

A wandering line established ground-up. May be the easiest possible lead to get to the top of this formation. After the 3rd bolt it's no harder than 5.2. The summit can be attained in one pitch if your rope is really long. This route accesses numerous top-rope anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The First Corridor