Near the left end of the cliff, find the crack with the lag bolt hammered into it above your head.  Climb the widening crack (read OW) to the summit.  This is a great climb, and the rock is very sharp!

Wiessner Route

Center Climb

Old Route

Chimney Crack

Kerr Route

Find the human sized detached block, climb up and over it from the left.  Climb a crack to the top.

Near the right end of the cliff base are twin cracks.  This route climbs the left crack.  The right crack is a 5.8 variation.  Climb the left crack to the small roof that is skirted on the right to the right facing corning then up to a another much larger roof.  Exit left and finish on the crack to the summit.

A pleasant climb with an alpine-like feel. 

  Up a slight left facing corner, then up a right rising ramp. Up and traverse ledges left to a corner, then up cracks and the corner, through a small overhang section to top out. Rope drag can be problematic on this climb. Breaking it up into two pitches may even be prudent. 

  An alternative to the start, which is similarly difficult, is to the right up some blocky terrain where it joins just below the ramp. This would help eliminate some rope drag issues as well.

Climb into a narrow chimney until you can exit left onto a juggy slab.  Easy climbing up left around a chockstone and over the lip into an easy 4th class dike system.  Inside of chimney can be wet and/or mossy.

All trad climbing on this small crag sitting atop Noonmark Mtn.  If you like to tick off Fritz Weissner Routes this is a must visit.  All the routes are short (100 ft) but are of high quality rock.  The rock is exposed, weathered and sharp.  The cliff faces SSW.  The routes and surrounding views are well worth the long approach.  We set up a fixed rappel line and left our packs on the summit, but walking back to the cliff base is nearly as quick.  Long webbing and extra mid-sized cams help to set up the rappel anchors.  Due to the high hiker traffic on the summit, we inspected our anchors closely before each rappel.  Standard rack. You should note that there were no chalk marks on these climbs prior to our climbing.  This is a great outing on rock less traveled. 

  This area is located in the Dix Mountain Wilderness area, and hence bear canisters are not required.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Noonmark Mountain