Pitch 1 - Squeeze up the wide flake to a stance (5.10 and optional gear belay), then continue up the left-facing corner with stemming and thin jams to a big ledge (5.10+).  Belay from bolted anchor.  A long pitch or can be broken into two pitches after the squeeze start.

Pitch 2 - Climb up the steep to overhanging finger crack in the left-facing corner past a few drilled pins to the top of the pillar (5.11c).  Belay from fixed anchor.

Descent - (1) Single rope rappel to big ledge, (2) walk off to the left or do a double rope rappel to the ground.

Sorcerer's Apprentice Left

Sorcerer's Apprentice Right

This route is located on the right side of the Sorcerer's Apprentice.  It is very obvious.  The route offers three pitches of sustained, exciting climbing.  The rock on the route resembles varnish wingate, but actually has some seriously crumbly rock on every pitch.  Pitches two and three are probably a little sandbagged, but hey, you be the judge.  PITCH 1:  There are two ways to start pitch one.  You can either go straight up the obvious finger crack or climb the flake to the right.  The rock is a little slick here and the protection can be tricky.  Be sure to bring small stuff.  Belay at the tied-off chockstone.  PITCH 2:  Head straight up the dihedral starting with the offwidth.  This pitch is a bit of an enduro fest, but stick with it. The second pitch goes through every size from offwidth to tips.  Belay in the "eye" where it is possible to walk behind the pillar.  There are no fixed anchors.  You can build an anchor with camalot sizes .75 through 3.  PITCH 3:  Climb out of the eye to the climber's right, over the belay and into one awesome dihedral.  It starts off thin hands and then the crack tapers to nothing.  It seems really hard at first, but once you realize that there are quite a few features on both faces the climbing becomes really fun.  Just stem your way through the pitch and believe in the friction.  Belay at fixed anchors at the top of the pillar.  Bring small stuff.  Wires may be helpful

DESCENT: Rappel down Sorcerer's Apprentice Left (The opposite side of the pillar from the route).  Then either walk off down the ramp (very long), or do a double rope rappel from the fixed anchors on the ledge.  We used two 60 meter ropes.  I don't know if 50s will make it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Sorcerer's Apprentice