. Sit-start with a tough move off of a bad hand hold, and a foot smear little daubs. Toss up through a sharp pocket and crimpy edges to more decent holds at the top. End the line with a good top-out

Nimbus

Finger Confusion

Saves The Day

Crimptonite

Lullabies For Little Criminals

Ramulus

Cumulonimbus Crack

Alley Way

Stiletto

Walk around the corner to the right of the Hero Boulder. Before you reach the end of the boulder, look for the long vertical thin crack starting approx 4 feet off of the ground. Start low at the thin base of the crack with tricky feet. Scale the crack (take advantage of the nice handhold midway up) and gain the ample topout.

Sit Start on the large gap-and-ledge to the left of "crimptonite" on the "Hero Boulder."   Make a controlled throw up and through to a section of stone that has raised and erratic segments just tall enough for individual finger placements, making the decision for where to put your fingers after the deadpoint to get there "confusing".   pull through and establish on the boulder.   Continue up the face through tricky moves,slopers, and crimps to the top out.

To the left of "Crimptonight" to the right of "Finger Confusion". Find the lowish matchable jug and paste feet underneath. Toss up to the right and grab a far lip. Toss left to a jug and then gain the boulders lip. Trend right a bit to better territory for the top out.

On the "Hero" Boulder.    Stand start on two slightly left facing slash crimps that are up around eye level on the boulder, and paste a far left foot way out left and low on a small lip.    Make a far throw up and left to a set of slots. left hand to the bottom left hold. right hand to the upper right.    Switch feet.    Bump to a hold above.    Toss high and right to the good knob above, and top out through the knobs above.

So crimpy! 

  Walk to the right, past the front face of Hero. Round the boulder to where you see the two boulders (Hero & Sidekick) meet. Look for the thin crack on Hero called the "Cumulonimbus Crack". To the left of the crack, look for the low thin crimps that are side-by-side. This is the start. 

  Match the two thin crimps and find the low left foot jib/flake under the steeper low portion of the face. 

  Pick up off of the crimps and make a tough right hand catch onto the close, higher, tiny, sharp crimp above. From there move left to a credit card edged crimp intermediate and the progress up and left again to the larger flake (looks large but the useable part is terribly thin). Move from the flake, up and right to gain the higher small rail. Continue to a better hold which gives-way to the great top-out. 

  Note: You will find on this line, as with most of the other holds on this specific boulder, that in the 90's someone reinforced the little holds with a small stripe of cement glue. There are very few boulders in GHSP where you will ever find this. I believe the gluing was from a small handful of climbers in the early 90's who only climbed on these boulders over a brief period of time. 

  The crimps aren't glued on, but "reinforcement" so the hold wouldn't break off in the future. The mystery cementer added a small, usually hard to see, stripe of cement in the back of the holds... I doubt the crimps were ever tested after the gluing as most edges of the crimps and flakes were extremely thin, chipping down or breaking when I initially attempted to use them. I don't feel the glue takes away from the problems now since nothing can be done about it, its a part of the history of the area, and the lines are still amazing. Enjoy! 

Look to the right of "Crimptonight"(v6) to find two thin staggered crimps to stand start on. Place a tiny left foot and toss up and left and work to a crimp that allows you to then gain the distant side-pull to your upper right.   From the side-pull and crimp you will burl up to the top lip of the boulder for a standard mantle.

-Hero Boulder- 

  Walk all the way around the hero boulder, as if you are walking toward the Sidekick Boulder. at the very end of Hero, where the boulder has a massive separation/split is where the "Alley Way" problem is found.   the problem sit starts on the edge of the gigantic crack, and uses only the cracks edge and any hold on the actual hero boulder to climb to the top out.   using the other side of the crack/separated boulder is not on or necessary.   sit start at the bottom, and get slightly high, good feet. start with a hand on a huge jug (right hand) and a left hand is a shallow pocket.   make a large move to a huge deep left pocket, and work up through solid juggy hands to the awesome top out.

This problem is on the Hero Boulder: 

  FA'd by Philip Yates on the 25th of July, 2010... 

  This problem is found on the low tapered left end of the Hero Boulder    (To the left of 'finger confusion'). sit start using two knobs and follow the lip/arete to the right through various slopers and flats. Once you reach a low pocket/ledge (also on 'finger confusion'), trend up to gain the top-out using knobs and crimps.

Access to the Hero Boulder has been re-opened! Thanks to the hard work and dedication from the Access Fund and the Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition the AVP Boulders have been purchased in order to permanently preserve and protect climber and recreational access for current and future generations. Check out the CACC's website here for continued stewardship initiatives and a link for membership and donations!

 The AVP Boulder and surrounding boulders are some of GHSP's most historical and highly regarded climbing resources. With every grade from v1-v10 these boulders have something for everyone. Only a stone's throw from the parking area, the approach is quick and easy. Landings are great and the forest setting is gorgeous. Come check it out!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hero Boulder