Dirty Love is one of the better routes on the Tooth.  Some non-standard moves makes the climbing funky in a very fun sort of way. The features are all there, but stringing them together is the business.  Climb up and to the right of the 2 small bushes... a few stem-jam-body-contorting moves later, climb through the bulge into a nice jam crack.  Follow this up to the arete.  Climb directly up the arete for a couple of moves until you can step back left into the dihedral.  Jam/stem up to the top.

The poodle bites!

The poodle chews it!

Dirty Love

Sheik Yerbouti

Flakes

What Would Frank Do?

Central Scrutinizer

Spinach is my New Lettuce

Titties & Beer

Trouble Every Day

To the left of

Dirty Love

is a distinct crack/chimney system that parallels

DL

. It looks dirtier than Love. What would Frank do?

I started up the short crack to the left of

DL

.  A short ways up, I stepped left, around an elaborate stack of blocks that resembles a small sculpture. Then I placed pro, angled a little to the right, then moved straight up. Loose holds and blocks were encountered throughout. Would Frank trundle, or leave those for the next party to enjoy? We chose to leave everything where we found it.

The crux was passing the short chimney visible in the top-left of the posted

DL

route photo, without using the obvious holds, which were loose, and while running the rope away from the rubble at the top of chimney. A belay anchor was made by placing a long loop of rope around the biggest block on the summit ridge, up a low-angle slab to climber's right.

This is a fine route and shares the start with

Central Scrutinizer

.  Climb the small dihedral straight up, using the arete when needed.  Move left under the roof, and head up into the wide & shallow stemming chimney.  Climb through the bulge, and up and right, finishing in the fine jam crack of

Central Scrutinizer

.

This is the first obvious crack on the left side of the Cavity.  It follows a series of nice, clean flakes up the buttress.

Start in the dihedral and jam and stem up to the roof.  Pass the roof on the right and continue up to the ledge.  Go left to the face or right to more flakes.

Walk off to the south.

... all what we got here is American made, it's a little bit cheesy, but it's nicely displayed....  FZ

This route is centrally located on the crag, and begins on the right side of the Cavity. Begin in a v-shaped, orange dihedral, and immediately make a move out to the arete on the right, following a thin crack.  Continue up to a stance, and then climb a steep jam crack until it fades.  Move left to better holds (crux) and continue up to another obvious crack which goes through a small roof.  Continue jamming to the top.

... Our criminal institutions are full of little creeps like you who do wrong things . . . and many of them were driven to these crimes by a horrible force called MUSIC!  FZ

This route follows discontinuous cracks up a nice, clean face.  The gear is interesting, and one should be comfortable with placing wires of all sizes in some slightly uncanny but secure placements.  The physical crux is shortly after leaving the ground, but the psychological crux is somewhere up there.  Start in a small, right-leaning dihedral that has a 2'x 2' tiny roof a few feet up.  Follow the logical line of cracks up.

This is the nice obvious dihedral that splits the main face to the right of the Cavity. Climb straight up the dihedral until it begins to fade.  Move right on easy ground to another crack that goes through a small roof.  Climb this to the top.

It looks chossy in the photo, and there is some lichen, but it is actually quite nice, and the rock is solid.

Just what will you give me for your titties and beer?  I suppose you've noticed this little contract here?  FZ

This line has some nice stemming, some decent jams, a bit of face, and a touch of OW.  The crux is moving through the roof higher up the pitch.  The "trouble" came in the form of a flake that chose to commit suicide after I had been stemming off of it for about a minute placing gear.

Well, you can cool it,

You can heat it . . .

'Cause, baby, I don't need it . . .

Take your TV tube and eat it

'N all that phony stuff on sports

'N all the unconfirmed reports

You know I watched that rotten box

Until my head begin to hurt

From checkin' out the way

The newsman say they get the dirt

Before the guys on channel so-and-so

And further they assert

That any show they'll interrupt

To bring you news if it comes up

They say that if the place blows up

They will be the first to tell,

Because the boys they got downtown

Are workin' hard and doin' swell,

And if anybody gets the news

Before it hits the street,

They say that no one blabs it faster

Their coverage can't be beat....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Zappa's Tooth