From the approach ledge, scramble up to a blocky ledge and follow discontinuous cracks and features past a couple of bolts and gear to a 5.10 crux. Shortly after the crux section the climbing eases up significantly and wanders around to the top passing several bolts. A lowering anchor would be useful after the crux section since the remainder of the climb is low 5th class.

Derelict

Jalopy

Ramshackle

Arabesque

Threadbare

Super fun and long pitch. From the ledge, climb through some loose blocks with a small tree to the right. Clip a bolt at the base of a shallow groove/chimney and continue up following bolts and occasional gear placements. Climb through some overlaps to gain the slab above zig zagging between the well spaced bolts. Rock is excellent.

Begin just right of an obvious line of bolts (threadbare) at a short left facing corner with a ledge and small tree at its end. Scramble up to the base of the left facing corner and climb to the ledge/tree and clip a bolt.  Work your way up to another bolt that protects a thin 5.9 section. Continue up on easier terrain past a fixed pin to a final bolt and another 5.9 section to gain a nice ledge with an anchor (100ft). Pitch two goes up slightly left of the anchor to a bolt, then straight up into a nice crack system to the top (5.8, 65ft). Can be done in a single pitch but prepare for rope drag.

P1 (100ft): Start up dark, chunky rock following discontinuous cracks, angling slightly right. When the crack ends go straight up past two bolts and then angle left across the slab above, skirting the base of a large, detached and precarious looking flake. Clip a fixed pin and continue angling up and left and belay at a bolt on a ledge left of a scrawny pine tree. P2 (65ft): Climb straight up for a bit then angle right over a lower angle section to some intermittent cracks/seams leading up onto the steeper headwall above. Follow these features straight up using any gear opportunities available as there is some ledge fall potential at this point. Continue up a short, thin crack/seam to a piton and on to the clean face above passing two bolts to the top of this beautiful headwall slab. Angle left near the top to end up at the bolted anchor which is also the finish of Threadbare/Ramshackle.

Locate the obvious line of bolts on the steep face just left of a short left facing corner formed by a 25ft pedestal. This pedestal of rock is the start of Ramshackle. Crank past the bolts (11-) to lower angle rock and discontinuous cracks, finding gear placements where you can. Traverse right under a small overhang then straight up on easier terrain past a piton and a final bolt to gain a belay ledge with a bolted anchor. This is the same belay as for the first pitch of Ramshackle. (100ft). Pitch two goes up to a bolt, angles right to another bolt, then continues straight up the beautiful thin headwall slab past a couple more bolts. It's possible to supplement the bolts with an occasional thin nut placement if you look hard enough. (5.10, 65ft). Rock is excellent.

Low angle granite wall with a small collection of quality 1-2 pitch routes on great stone high on the east side of the canyon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Lower Slabs