Irish Red is Murphy's other beer. This is a satisfying lead with good position at a moderate grade.

There's an 18' old-school runout on easier ground at the top; 1 optional piece would cut it in half.

You can either start directly up the slab or use the ramp on the right. Heck, make you're own adventure and climb up to the new anchor on Murphy's Law if you want. Just don't add more bolts.

This seems a little harder than

Murphy's Stout

, but what do you think?

Irish Red

Murphy's Law

Black Streak Through Overlap

Bottom Feeder

Stitch of Time

Murphy's Stout

The King and Eye

Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call

Hey, Dude

Beer is Better

Water Witch

Pork Meadows

Slim Chance

Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile)

Where's My Car?

Climb 80 feet of slab to a small, arching overlap. Step over the arch and continue up 20 more feet of slab.

Walk off to the left via a fourth class gully.

This isn't my route, but let's include it in the database. The rock on the entire dome is friable, the same as 11 years ago, but this is still a good pitch worth doing when here. It is not exactly a sport climb, just sort of a typical 'Platte spacing on 3/8" bolts.

EDIT: as of 4-5-16, there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this line where you expect one and

4 bolts have been added

! (one down at the bottom and 3 on the upper section. Now I guess it is a sport climb.)

[In it's original form, I always took a hard right at the last bolt (which is orphaned by the new bolts) and went 20 odd feet to meet up with the obvious cold-shut anchor bolts. (Otherwise, you'd have to contend with the minefield of rocks waiting to kill your belayer.) Yes, it was more run-out but safer since the climbing was reasonable.]

This isn't my route, but it popped up in the last 6 months. So I thought I'd log it in.

It is a perfectly good route on a narrow slab with "modern" bolt spacing and good flow. The rock is pretty solid in the water-streak, more friable in the overlap/roof, and best on easier ground to the new anchors. It is a nice addition to the area.

This route climbs the arete to the left of the unknown 5.9 dihedral. Follow the line of 4 bolts up the arete, then run it out up and right to the obvious, bolted anchor (shared with the two unknown routes to its right). This has typical South Platte friction with a couple of good holds thrown in.

I believe this route is the first bolted route right of the arete that divides the main face, and 2 completed routes left of the obvious, left-facing dihedral of

Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call

. Stem/friction up to first bolt, then place gear in incipient crack. The crux is stepping back left from right groove with good nut placement onto the face to clip 2nd bolt.  It has good friction climbing.  There is a 2 bolt anchor.  All the bolts looked new.

This is a thin slab, and the rock is definitely somewhat friable. The crux seems like it is near the bottom on a smooth slab. I am glad I did it as a top rope, because I did fall. The first ascensionist was bold leading free up to the bolt. There is no gear at all. At the bolt, I went to the right like

Crimes Against Rock

. This was how the first ascent was done. Going up from the bolt looked like it would be very difficult. This was originally called Frosted Flakes.

Friction up to the base of a large, left-facing corner formed by large flake. Follow the corner to top, then follow groove to tree. There is lots of loose rock just below the tree.

Hey, Dude has a high 1st bolt, clever thin moves following the arch right, and then it goes straight up to the tree (don't give up and move left). There are friable features, but it is pretty satisfying to lead.

We rap'd the tree, but you could probably work your way up and walk down right.

This is certainly not the best route on the rock, but, if you are crazy enough to bring big gear to this rock, it is something to do. Most of the way your feet are on the slab and you only use the crack for your hands. You can lieback much of the crack, but in the best 10' of the climb, you can use hand jams to ascend. Near the edge of the crack the rock is quite friable. I broke much of the loose stuff off, but more remains. Your biggest piece will be the first you place which means your second will carry it up most of the climb. If you only have as big as a #6, it will be your first piece. It is a little risky getting up to where it can be used. My next piece was a #5. The best part of the climb is the short hand crack section about halfway up. There is a small sticker bush in the way up higher, but the climbing is easier here. You can belay from the anchors on

Irish Red

if you wish to do two pitches, or you can clip its anchors for pro.

Above, you follow a wide crack to the right which leads to the last two bolts on

Murphy's Law

. This crack takes a #6 and a #5, so it is good to do the climb in two pitches. The hardest parts are right at the beginning and at the last two bolts on

Murphy's Law

. Let me know if I did not have the first ascent, but I probably do.

Climb for 35 feet of 5.7 slab past three bolts. Continue for another 70 feet of easy fifth class. Clip another bolt and continue up 60 feet of 5.5 slab to final bolt.

Rappel to the left into a gully.

This line is not in the guidebook, but is the first complete bolted line left of the LF corner of

Chris and Pete's

.  It is considerably harder friction climbing than the "unknown 5.9" immediately to its left.  I would go left at 3rd bolt.

Climb the slab past crimpy moves to the anchors.

This route is also known as the Original Route. The first bolt is high, and it protects the crux which is the slab above it. The guidebook does not mention that it is a buttonhead bolt. The climbing up to the bolt is fairly easy slab climbing, but a fall would not be good. Higher up you clip the last two bolts on

Bottom Feeder

. The climb is fun but would be better done on top rope than led. You can do this if you climb one of the routes to the right.

This route follows a crack that crosses several routes.  It starts the same as unknown 5.9, it then cross the unkown route to its right and The King & Eye, and then finishes on Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call.

Although it's a very obvious line, it's not in Hubbel's book, so it may be a first ascent.  The crack was rather dirty in between the routes it crosses and I wanted to give it a name rather than add another "unknown" to this area.

Start as for Unknown 5.9

[105760863

], clipping the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right, placing gear as you go. A #4 BD micro nut is helpful above the first bolt. The crack peters out just before the bolt on

The King & Eye

. Clip it and make a heady traverse over to

Chris & Pete's Wake Up Call

.  From the top of the flake, run it out over easy ground to a two bolt anchor up and left of the obvious, large tree.

Rap about 120 feet to the ground or one short rap to the bolted anchor below and then another 80 feet to the ground.

Per

Jay Eggleston

": you can clip 3 bolts, not two.... The second route you cross is

Pork Meadows

.

This route popped up recently, so I'm updating the database.  What's good? I always thought there should be a route connecting the natural features. What's bad? It's hard! I broke off a lot of little flakes, fell a few times, aided 2 spots, and have no idea how hard it really is.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Murphy's Dome South Face