MTV (More Than Vertical)

Rona

Second Date

Formless and Void

Unknown Face Climb on Gorilla Pillar

Horus

King Wing

New Kid in Town

Jonah

Rona Direct

Squeaky Clean

Trial and Error

Fuzz's Fire Insurance

Hank Jr Takes the Whipper

Eagle Scratch

Poet's Return

Bobbing For Frogs

Flirtin' With Disaster

Bleeding Heart

Dr Crankenstein

Struggle Bus

start on the lowest rail (obvious) and work left and up to a fun mantel.

Start beside the tree up on the step, then traverse left on easy slab to the water grooves for your first pro. Follow the featured water grooves until they deepen to cracks, follow various crack systems jamming and face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor! Lots of face holds to keep it interesting with good hand and fist jams in the cracks along the way.

Bolted face climb on the large pillar-like formation between Bobbing For Frogs and Hank Jr. Not sure if this is a project or a route. Viewed from Bobbing for Frogs the pillar forms a huge left facing corner, and resembles a gorilla's head, giving it the name Gorilla Pillar in the old guidebook.

Tons of variety on this one. Start on slab passing 3 bolts to where the wall steepens. There make some thin crimp moves to jugs, dead point to more jugs, plug some pro in the horizontal, move left through the crux then to amazing steep face climbing and a final heartbreaker move before the final mantle. Once on the ledge you will feel one with the bird headed god.

very fun route with distinct style sections in consistent difficulty. move left up the textured slab to the lengthwise crack/undercrimp (may want stick clip for some high gear here). sidepull to gain an excellent pinch and mantle onto the shelf. from right shelf, take another high clip and hand/foot match a steep series of 3 or 4 thin crosswise sloping edges til mantle up under the anchor at far left of huge shelf with Fuzz Fire Insurance over to right.

if you're short on gear you can easily set for TR after topping Fuzz Fire.

Steep 90 degree wall with continual variety. Go get it. Locate a bolt 15 feet up (stick clip advised). Pull the bouldery start moves past the bolt, work up and left to a friction crux. Great edges and jams up top to anchors. Note: all of Eagle Rock was highly affected by the 2017 fires. Climbing has also been closed here for 15 years, open in May 2018 thanks to the CCC (join them if you are reading this). Bring a brush to dust off ash. Like many other Eagle routes, once clean, this is a fantastic route.

Squeeze up the obvious chimney to the roof.  Stay away from tottering loose blocks.  Pull hard moves and traverse roof out right until you can fit yourself into the slot.  Tunnel through the belly of the beast to a sling belay at other side.  An odd but fun endeavor, done onsight, ground up.

Direct start to “Rona.”

Start on the side pulls/ feet on the quartz knobs and fire up to the mantle on Rona

If you love Joshua Tree slabbin then this thing is for you. Short and action packed eagle rock knobs. Sustained and thoughtful.

Thin crack. A neat lie back move or two. We have dusted it off a bit but it may need more.

Best done in two pitches. Finish first pitch by traversing the horizontal crack and belay from the left facing flake which takes good pro, or the new anchors at the top of Second Date. 6 to 8 bolts depending how you go and a few small cams/nuts to fixed anchors above the lip (rap rings not visible from ground). This route starts just left of the cracks of Second Date. It begins up a run-out but relatively easy arete to the first bolt (visible from ground ~30 ft up), and then moves into balance intensive slabby face climbing.  The bolt lines split off in different directions near the top, or you could split off up through the vegetated gully.  This one sports some old and new bolts, and it is definitely a rope stretcher.  Great thrill!

This was not given a name to my knowledge. Tim, Sean- feel free to update.Sweet left slanting crack with a surprise crux in the bulge leading to anchors. There is a Tim Snyder/ Sean Cobourn project that continues (note bolt above anchors) but currently unfinished. It will need more dusting off. This area was heavily affected by the 2017 fires so the next year plus will require ash cleaning. Keith Wood notes: In 1989 Keith Wood and Tommy Bridges gave this a shot but couldn't complete it. It blanks out above the bulge. We drilled a bolt hole but didn't put in the last bolt because it didn't look like it could go any further. Our name for it was Noncommittal Mugging, but it really should be named by the one that completes it.

Three distinct cruxes but the first one is the most balancy. Second crux involves bullet hard crimps.

P1: 5.8+ Nice moderate that should serve as the warm up for the Lower Tier. Climb past three bolts and gear. The top has some neat knobs. If climbing P2, you may want to belay just left of the bush. CCC volunteers replaced the lead bolts in 2018.

P2: 5.10a Great slabbin'! Climb wide flake behing bush, move right for bolt 1, then follow 4 more bolts and gear to an anchor. All bolts replaced by CCC on this pitch, 2019.

At the east end of lower Eagle Rock is a giant boulder forming a tunnel where it abuts the main wall. From atop the tunnel follow a natural feature upwards around 1 o'clock. It becomes a mixed line with some bolts. Once you hit the woods, scramble/bushwhack to the summit.

Bolts recently replaced by Carolina Climbers Coalition. Sent free at 11b. Great crack to techy crux.

Follows great flakes with solid pro to a shared anchor with Flirtin' With Disaster at 90'. This would deserve more stars with some cleaning of ash from fires.

This flake system was once hidden by foliage, but the fires of 2017 revealed it.

Short, but fun!  Heel hook and hug the patina arete with remarkable rock. Beware of the flake just left of the arete (it flexes), but you may need it for a foot. Stick clip highly recommended.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Tier