My Sweet Alecia Marie

Bulls On Parade

My Sweet Alecia Marie (Bouldering Variation V1)

Training Wheels

The Jeffery Traverse

Do not cheat the sit start!!!! You are only cheating yourself and will be missing all the fun. A great combination of crack and slab climbing. The crack flares from fingers to hands in places with great moves on excellent rock.

SDS at the slightly overhanging, obvious crack...this is the goods and offers aesthetic moves start to finish.

From a SDS, you will work through the slightly overhanging crack starting at the base of the wall (which trends up and to your left) onto the slabby face to meet back up with the main crack (which trends up and right).

Layback...stuff, jam, & crank...do whatever you must to pull through the start. From here, the sailing is smoother for a few moves.

The main crack starts and stays wide fingers to hands until about 3/4's of the way up the face where it pinches off to slab.

The end of the crack brings you to committing and exposed slab.

This ends with crux moves coming with your commitment to move out (climber's right) onto the blank face and another crux following with a mantle over the bulge to top out(go up and left if you are not comfortable with climbing on 5.10+ slab).

Don't peel on the slab topping out...the fall would probably suck.

You got up, you can get down...walk, rap..there's options.

This is a H.B. problem, so take note if you boulder it.

This is a top rope section of the crag, so there is not really any significant route beta to give.

The easiest starts are to the left of "

My Sweet Alecia Marie

".

Follow the dike up, trending to climber's right as you pass above the finger crack that is the route/boulder problem "

My Sweet Alecia Marie

" or choose to mantle up and go left through the cliff band of the exposed pegmatite intrusion.

Any of these easier options ends at the mini-headwall (the point you will most likely be lowering a climber on this section from) unless they continue on to link into other routes, which all come in at .10+, but they too can be TR'd.

It is fun for beginners or kids.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Castle View Crag