A short fun crack. Would make for a great solo if it weren't for jagged rocks at the bottom. Be confident in your abilities if pitching off solo! The danger element is further heightened by the amount of large loose rocks on the topout. It is possible to straddle the arete on a thankful seat to avoid the death blocks. This would make for a nice short roped crack climb if the top were cleaned off. Walk off East.

Dumb Decision

June Bug

Postcards From Sierra

Borglum Memorial

Mistaken identity

This is a Steck Salathe style variation to Dumb Decision with the same start.Climb the fist/inside finger crack to a small ledge place a number 3 hex and a number 4-6 nut (depending on your brand) to protect the traverse. Get ready to commit step out in to the chimney system cuss swear beg and plead for your back as you grovel inch by inch to the large boulder wedged in the chimney. Place one cam to protect the overhang and top it out.

Well protected route that is a easy to find. Starts thin and moves past two bolts to an easy middle section that can be easy protected with fist sized gear. After that move right to another thin bolt protected face moving right to the anchors on top. Rappel or walk off the back. 

Scramble up the low-angled ramp for 40 feet to gain the hand crack next to the large roof. Climb the hand crack as it narrows to the ledge. From the ledge, proceed up the chimney to the top.

Start on the right side under neath the chimney, first move is stepping out left of of the block onto the face. Work the vertical dykes past the 1st bolt leading to a horizontal crack. You can place a cam in this crack if you are worried, but one more move on jugs and a good pocket will get you to the second bolt. The crux is between the 2nd And 3rd bolt. It’s slightly past vertical and there is an amazing pinch. After you clip the 3rd bolt there is a few more technical movements while you grasp a Diagonal corner, mantle here and stay on the good rock the the left. After that you move up good holds on low angle rock through the 4th bolt to the anchors

Rock directly behind the bathroom in the parking lot. Trad climbing, bouldering and free solo. Mostly shady throughout the afternoon.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Borglum Rock