Climb up a wide hand splitter to the first anchor left of the crack. Clip a long runner or two to the first anchor (5.10), and traverse left into the thin finger crack in a shallow corner, then take it to the second anchor (5.11). The .10 section is about 50' long, and the .11 section is the rest. This definitely can be done as one pitch. Moving to and past the first anchor is pretty tough.

Rockin' Rhino

Black Walk

Darkness Till Dawn

Coalition of the Drilling

Stacked Blocks

Doobieous Deliverance

Sizzlin' Summer Solstice Spectacular

Little Gypsy

This thin, bolted face with crispy edges will keep your fingertips and toes aching for the anchors. It is challenging and balancy.

Start on

Doobieous Deliverance

for one or two gear placements, then trend right up a flake to the first bolt of Black Walk. Continue trending right for the most part up a hard-to-read, sustained, and slabby line with s-p-a-c-e-d bolts. Get your head right, it is not a beginner 5.8 climb. The climb moves more to the right than you would expect, even while on the route.

On left (western) wall, this is the 2nd climb from left. Start at obvious overhanging 6" roof crack with bolts on wall to right. Layback easily past offwidth section and move up into a shallow dihedral, clipping bolts at great stances. It has a desperate crux at the top just before anchors. This is great quality and is well-protected!

This route requires 4 or 5 draws for the start then a small assortment of cams up to 3" take you to an anchor. The crux is at the beginning to the second bolt. Clipping the first bolt requires a fair amount of balance, and the landing is bad, don't blow it. It is about the only moves that give thought on this climb.

On the center of the left (western) wall, climb 5.9 up and left into a slot/groove, then go up the tight tips double seams/cracks to the anchor. This is fun and will challenge your small cam placing skills.

On the right (eastern) wall, this is the obvious, beautiful arete in the center of the wall. Fun moves and great views will both keep you on your game.

Climb over five or six bolts that cover slabby moves dispersed with the welcomed patina edges. There is enough slab to slow you down and think for sure!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Wall