An airy line with varied slab features and an incredible flake. Route history: Scoped by Adam in 2003, 17 years before the FA.P1: 5.10b Climb up the face with no protection (5.7x) to a crux move leading to the ledge. Walk left 25' and belay below a large left-rising flake. 60'P2: 5.8 Climb the flake to its end and step up to a left facing corner. At the to of the corner climb straight up on surprising holds and horizontal cracks. When the angle eases, run it out up easier terrain until blocked by a steep headwall. Step right into the trees and belay from cracks. 120'Video at: youtu.be/abFfYitmfYg

Trigger Warning

Pioneer Anomaly

Cat on a Wet Tin Roof

Tomcat

Watery Grave

Panther's Fang

Panther's Pinnacle

Rumours of War

CrazyDog's Halo

You Moss be Kidding Me!

All Things Holy

Paws Off

Less Than Zero PG

Promised Land

Eye for an Eye

Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb)

Cracks of My Tears

Luceo Non Uro

Moonraker Runout

Belshazzar's Fate

Climb After Slime

Predatory Instincts

Tail of Redemption

All Ryled Up

Ranger on the Rock

Slab the Impaler

Anorthosite Overcast

Kitten's Got Claws

Galaxy of Tears

One for the Boys

The Pride

Haycrack

Windjammer

Anorthofright

All Battered Boyfriends

Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald

Throne to the Lions

Castle Column

Psalm 23

And Then the Judgment

Nothing but the Rain

Margin Slide

Had the Radish

Slacker Cracker

Wrecking My Zen

Practically Roadside

Bushy Pussy

For Whom the Lichen Tolls

Revelations

Tomcat is an uncharacteristically long line for Mt. Haystack. The diverse line follows the left-most side of No Man’s Land and incorporates a huge flake next to the most expansive slab on the mountain. The route was named by Steven in memory of Tom Wright whose kind, genuine, adventurous soul lives on in the hearts of many Adirondack locals.

Start: Approach as for Paws Off. Begin at the bottom of a narrow slide left of the large slab.  

Descent: Bushwhack upslope and find the top of a gully on the left side of No Man’s Land. It may be wise to break the descent into three rather than two full-length rappels to reduce rope drag.

Interesting line left of a buttress on Marcy's Agharta Wall.  

  P1 PG 5.8: Climb up grungy corner to right facing handcrack/corner to top of pinnacle. Belay. 150’  

  P2 PG 5.8 : Climb obvious fingercrack to its end. Make crux move to a ledge. Climb a series of ledges and  belay where it joins CrazyDog’s Halo at horizontal cracks on lower angle slab. 200’

Starts with an unprotected climb (15') up 5.7 face. Moves onto lower angle cracks and slab to a large belay terrace after 150'. Crux climbs 25' crack to a 20' chimney between a free standing pinnacle and wall.  

  Descent: Walkoff along top of cliff--expect about 15 minutes of thrashing through heinous krummholz.

Climbs a steep face on small edges to a small roof (crux). A fingercrack leads up to a traverse across the face to a larger crack where it meets up with P1 of the Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald (2014).

Climb 110' up a crack centered on the wall to it's top; walk off or rappel. This was the first documented climb in the gorge, a true backcountry classic with the crux about halfway up.

Incorporates, face climbing, crack climbing and a free standing spire on the southeastern arête of Mt. Marcy's Chimney Wall.  

  P1 5.6 PG (5.1 R): Climb into the off width and run it out (or bring a #6) to a chossy face with good gear. Climb to vegetated ledges and step right through a thin band of cedars to the large gully below an obvious roof. 100’ 

  P2 5.8 PG: Climb the right facing corner with a 3” crack to its top. Step left and follow cracks up a ramp to a large flake below a seam and belay. 50’ 

  P3 5.9 R: Face climb right with sketchy gear (runout for 15’) to a right rising handcrack that leads to steep featured ramp. Face climb up divoted slab to a 10’ tall free standing pinnacle. Climb pinnacle and step from its top to a ledge on the east side of the Chimney Wall arête. Climb ledges to the top. Belay from a 3” crack in a small cliff. 100’

This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack).  

  Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though youll want to make sure it hasnt rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate!  

  Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor. 

P1 5.5 - 180

  Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on    the face). 

P2 Crux 5.9 - 75

  Climb crack to offwidth then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge. 

P3 5.7 - 150

  Continue following crack to offwidth chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top. 

VIDEO

  Shows only P1 and P2. 

youtube.com/watch?v=q0iQ4Ye…

Ascends corners, cracks and a chimney on pitch one. Climbs a finger crack that peters out to a face climb to a tree island on pitch two. The third pitch features a stellar view over the Cloudsplitter/Toma's Wall routes to the north before ascending the face to a broken cliff band. 

Full account, photo set and video.

This one looks like a mossy mess at first glance; instead an alternating chimney/crack system makes a surprisingly fun climb with great hand jams, good feet and plenty of holds.  

  Start: About 20’ right of the Panther’s Fang at the obvious crack with moss on either side. 

  Climb a chimney-crack system to its top. Break right to an obvious left-facing corner and belay above.

If you want to climb in the most remote area in the High Peaks with Marcys northern technical walls and East face in the background, then this 505-foot route may be the perfect venue. With a start to end mileage of 19 miles from the Garden Trailhead (including lunch on Mt. Haystack), this is an adventure in tenacity--but the "climb is worth the view".  

  The rock is of excellent quality with the first pitch beginning from the basaltic dike on the right side-Mt. Coldens Trap Dike in miniature. An aesthetic line up a left rising crack with excellent holds and edges breaks a corner to follow thirty feet up a right rising crack on the western aspect face (90'). Easy climbing follows up along cracks in bulges of pitted moonrock (180'). The third pitch adds a technical slide into the mix (165') before ending on a small cliff with a handcrack (70'). 

Route Description On Adirondack Rock

P1 5.8 PG Climb the corner to a small roof. Break through the roof on its right, then follow several cracks to an open book. Climb right facing flake on the left side to a ledge. Follow the handcrack and belay from cracks in a 6’ high wall. 110’

 P2 5.3 PG Step down right and traverse along the base of an overhanging cliff to an obvious corner below a chossy gully. 150’

 P3 5.4 X Traverse easy slab behind balancing blocks to a corner. Recommended belay at corner to reduce rope drag. Step around the corner and climb an obvious left facing corner with cracks to low angle, x-rated moonrock. Climb to a short ledge and belay in woods. 140’ 

 Rappel along the right side of the cliff.

Climb horizontal jugs next to left facing corner to its top. Step right to top of the ramp of the Ramp Wall. Climb right facing corner to top.  

  Hurdle moss cornice to belay! 

  Descent: Rappel down route.

A diverse route on the face of the buttress directly next to a large gully right of the Feline Wall. Face climbing, varied crack climbing and a money pitch between large opposing walls make this a worthy climb. Welcome to the Promised Land! 

P1 5.7 160 PG Climb a right rising ramp at the bottom left of the face. Climb face to a horizontal crack left of two small trees. Continue up vertical cracks in the center of the face. About 100 up as the cracks peter out, make a few sketchy moves and break through a narrow band of vegetation. Climb cracks to a treed terrace directly below a large roof and belay. 

P2 5.4 80 PG Climb to roof and make a 4th class traverse 20 right. Step up on low angle slab to huge boulder on the left and belay. 

P3 5.8 170 PG Walk past boulder to left-facing wall with a ceiling at about chest height. Traverse using horizontal crack under the ceiling to the face between the gully and a huge left facing corner. Climb the face to dual vertical hand cracks. Climb to their end then right on low-angle slab to a chimney below a small ceiling. Climb up blocky horizontal cracks to another chimney to the slight left. Take care of loose-looking rock. Step left and climb along the edge of gully to top.  

  End with 5th class cedar pulling and belay from two large pines left of the gully. 

Descent: Rappel down gully. Begins with 100' abseil with a couple terraces breaking it up. A second rap is necessary below the P2 section of the route.

On left of drainage, climb 8 foot block up off width crack.  

  Go up right facing corner with many loose looking blocks (they are well anchored). Follow below flaring cracks on south face of cliff and pass two small pillars.  

  Continue up to an obvious fist crack and climb to its top.  

Descent: Walk off to drainage and rappel.

This is one of the most striking features in the gorge and, from Mt. Haystack, appears as a plumb shadow splitting the Chimney Wall. The chimney is a 6’ wide trap dike inset 20’ into the cliff. A large diagonal chockstone caps the top. The first of 3 attempts was with Adam Crofoot (lead climber) who climbed 1/3 of the way up on thin ice in December of 2014.  

  Climb an obvious line along a bomber crack that runs up most of the lefthand corner. The crux is fairly low on one of the slightly overhanging sections of trap rock. Positive hands and feet are on the wall as well. Exit up the righthand corner after passing under the open door of the tomb (chockstone). Belay from trees.

Begin with a low crux protected by small gear. Follow a right-leaning seam up to pockets of large crystals. Move right to the obvious finger and handcracks and climb to their top. Finish on a comfortable belay ledge.

 The route is not sustained at the grade once at the crystals.

 Descent:Rappel from sturdy cedars (you’ll have to bushwhack about 20’). Gear: Small nuts or RP’s, cams to 3”.

An engaging, airy arête climb with fun moves. Combining this with either of the nearby routes including the pillar (10 min. north) would make a great day. As my friends would say, "If this was roadside it would see alot of traffic."

 P1: Follow the obvious crack on the right side of the arête taking care of the loose, yet in place block, on the right wall. Make a big move from the block to easier terrain and choose between finding a hidden horizontal on the left of the arête or running it out to an overlap (critical placement). Traverse over to a left rising flake then climb the obvious crack up to the top.

This climbs copious amounts of “moonrock” (heavily dimpled anorthosite reminiscent of a cheese-grater) and has runout sections.

P1 5.8+ R: Climb three sets of dimpled faces separated by obvious horizontals. There are slightly left rising cracks on the first face. Climb to the second ceiling and traverse left over the ceiling to a handcrack (crux). Get in crack then continue left to a right rising crack. Climb to an obvious ledge and belay. 90’

P2 5.4 G: Climb easy rock to the bottom of an obvious right facing corner with a wall to its right. 170’

P3 5.8 R: Climb the wall to a green, dimpled, runout slab. Critical gear at its bottom at a right rising crack. Run it out about 30’ and trend left to a right facing corner where the gear is PG rated. Climb corner to its top and take care of loose rock. Face climb to bottom of the overhanging ledges and belay from a crack, again taking care of loose pancakes underfoot. 150’

 P4 5.7 PG: Traverse 25’ left to a wide crack in the cliffs (intersections CrazyDog’s Halo). Climb behind a large block to a ledge and traverse left to a left-facing corner with a small chockstone. Climb the corner and face climb to the trees. 90’

 Rappel the Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.

This line is surprisingly interesting and more appealing than it appears from below. 

  Climb to flaring chimney and follow to roof. Drift left around dangerous blocks to a small ledge. Climb handcrack in right facing corner to adequate belay on the left.   Rappel or walk off to climber’s right.

A play on “Time After Time”, this route features an absolutely bomber lay-back flake leading to a traverse out on the prow of the Panther Den Wall. 

  Start: 10’ right of Cat on Wet Tin Roof via the mossy blocks and cracks below an obvious gully. Expect the first 15’ to be slimy if wet. Alternately one may start on the adjacent runout face (start of Cat on a Wet Tin Roof) and move right to the gully.  

  P1: 50’ 5.7 Climb mossy blocks with good gear into a gully. Continue to an optional belay from a ledge next to the beginning of twin finger cracks below an obvious right-facing flake.  

  P2. 130’ 5.8 Step right to attain the cracks (crux). Climb the flake with an alternating finger/hand crack to a horizontal at its top. Traverse 10’ right along the horizontal with great hands and ok feet to attain the prow. Good face climbing and a series of overlaps leads to low angle slab. Continue past a chimney on the left to belay from the trees past a left-facing corner.

Climbs an edgy technical slab, slightly overhanging finger- and hand-cracks in the left wall of the Huge Scoop, and breaks through the roofs above the Huge Scoop. This is currently (2016) the southernmost route on the northern walls of Mt. Marcy. 

  P1 5.6 R: Climb edgy black slab to the first gear 40' up. Continue to left-rising seam and follow it through a small overhang. Belay 30' below headwall where the slab steepens below the first obvious overhanging crack from the left corner of headwall. (Note: Bill Schneider estimated this crack, not part of the route, as about 5.11). 150' 

  P2 5.9 PG: Traverse left to the right-facing wall with twin chocolate-colored cracks—"double chocolate love" to colorfully quote Schneider. Climb to cracks and follow to their top. Step left onto face at chockstone and belay from horizontal crack below a tree island. 75' 

  P3 5.8 PG: Step right and climb diagonally up and right over an overlap and up to a 5'-tall left-facing corner with finger crack. Climb right to another crack and follow to roof and left-facing corner. Break through roof via a handcrack and climb to top of a tree island; belay from crack under a roof. 175' 

  P4 5.8 PG: Climb slightly right and up a left-facing corner with a handcrack and horizontals (other easier options are available including a short OW chimney). Top out on low angle chossy slab and take care of the loose flakes. Climb to the right of a large tree island and belay from trees at the top. 50'

P1: 5.7+ R Climb a ramp with loose rock and good gear and to a left leaning chimney/corner at the left border of the obvious roof system. Continue to a stance below a 4’ boulder.  Break right and face climb up to the first left leaning crack/seam. Follow until it turns into a left facing overlap (runout). Climb about 2/3 of the way up and step right over the overlap before it arches to the left. Face climb to the next left leaning hand-crack. Follow and belay from the crack with a stance in a small depression. 150’ 

  P2: 5.6 PG Climb the crack and bulges to obvious left facing corner. Climb corner to top then diagonally  to another left facing corner with a large “table” of stone forming a roof at the top. Face climb slab to table and belay from tree island. 170’

Climb the obvious plumb handcrack on the left wall that starts at the terrace under the giant chockstone.

Like all the other routes in the gorge, the view is the one of the best parts of the climb. Set about 1/2 mile down the gorge the panorama includes the face and Agharta and Feline climbing walls to the north. Just across the way lies Mt. Haystack with its impressive summit ridge of bare rock. 

  The route starts on featured slab and climbs up to a partially vegetated corner. Step left over the corner and follow it up until its end. The feature becomes more rounded and less vegetated at the top. Climb 30 up and slightly right over small overlaps to an edge with good protection. 

  Pitch 2 traverses right and up over more small overlaps toward a tree island with a large dead tree (tree is loose). 

  Pitch 3 (crux) begins from the opposite side of the tree island and traverses right to the beginning of a sloping ledge with small evergreens on the far side. The best quality rock is away from the trees. Climb the face up to the base of a large overlap where the first good protection is available. Traverse left to another tree island.   

  Pitch 4 ends with a climb up the face and into the grass to the base of the cliff at the top of the slab.  

  Descent: Traverse right (north) across top of face on grassy shelves into trees. Your target is a gully about 300 feet north of the top of pitch #4. Rappel down the gully with over 530 feet of elevation loss; plan for 6 rappels from firm trees.

This is the first route up the large shield of slab on Mt. Haystack’s No Man’s Land area and features airy face climbing and an edgy traverse. Thanks to Rich McKenna for coming up with such a perfect name, a play on Vlad the Impaler or Vlad Dracula of Romania.

 Face climb the slab along the left side of the crack until it peters out. Traverse left on flaky edges to a short, shallow, right-facing corner. Climb to its top and step left to a flared seam. Make a few moves up the seam to the obvious bugle with a short off-width. Follow the OW to easier terrain. Drift slightly left across several left and right rising cracks, and follow the slab to a belay in a stepped gully.

Adam named the route as a play on the Will Mayo route, Aluminum Overcast. He described this as "the route of a lifetime."

 P1: Face climb up to the right of the seep (tricky gear, water does not affect climbing). Gain the prominent corner and follow it through a small roof to a cramped stance under a second small roof. From here, follow discontinuous finger cracks up and right ot a hero hand crack finish.

Pitch 1 is 110' feet and starts with a 5.7+ crux, a ballsy R-rated climb up steep slab. You'll be 35' above the deck before the first piece of gear.  To start, step right on to a grassy ledge 15 up the slab and move to the center.  

  Crimp your way up unprotected black slab to small right arcing overlap with a finger pod to its left (critical gear placement).  

  Traverse left to smaller cracks. Climb to lighter colored slab with twin finger cracks that nearly join at the top. Continue up handcrack and belay from vertical cracks above small ledges next to left facing corner. 

  P2 5.6 140 G: Follow the obvious blocky left rising crack to a right facing corner. Step right after corner and continue up to gully at the top lefthand side of the wall. Crawl through a vertical womb of cedar to a 10 inch diameter pine tree and belay.

The route is one of the longest lines on Mt. Marcy’s northern walls with highlights that include an airy climb up an exposed open book on P2 and funky face climbing on P4. Expansive views overlook the Agharta Wall to the left. The world is a troubled place--terror attacks, mass shootings and violence of every form—Galaxy of Tears is a tribute to the fallen victims.  

  P1: 5.8 120’ G    Follow the left-most fingercrack to a handcrack and belay from cracks at the top near a 3 foot wide flake that overhangs the Agharta Wall.  

  P2: 5.9 150’ PG    Follow the obvious finger crack up an exposed arête and move left before the overhang. Continue up a slightly left rising dihedral to an open book with the crux at an exposed hand traverse. Climb to its top and belay from a good ledge. 

  P3: 5.8 170’ PG    Climb a right-facing flake that turns into a corner with sketchy gear. Climb past top of Kat Nap and drift right on low angle slab. Break through the trees to the base of the upper cliff band. 

  P4: 5.6 160’ G    Begin about 50’ left of a large left-facing corner. Climb obvious cracks/face climb on an extremely featured face – envision an enormous cheese-grater. Follow a short wall left to a chimney. Climb low angle slab to trees and belay.

Start in the crack or on the small ledges immediately right. Watch for loose blocks on the first ledge in the crack. Follow crack to top and belay.

This is one of the true gems of Panther Gorge-clean stone, diverse climbing, a seam under a multi-tiered roof system and splitter handcrack.

P1 5.7 200 Climb the dark black slab up face holds to a thin crack. Follow for about 40 to a horizontal crack. Follow a right rising ledge to the huge corner and belay at the end of the rope under small block roofs. 

  P2 5.9- 110 Continue up to obvious left facing corner under dominant roof system. Step left 20 to a vertical crack and climb below a cantilevered blockthe Dong of Death. Do not touch the dong. Break right back to the corner then follow the multi-tiered roof/corner system to the lip. (Critical protection above lip). Traverse right about 7 feet to obvious vertical handcrack and climb to top. Follow crack right and belay. 

P3 5.7 170 Up a short left facing corner located to the right. Follow slab to large left facing corner, follow to top. Drift left and belay at tree left of grungy opposing corners. 

P4 5.7 80 Climb cracks for 30 the break right for 50 through 5th class krummholz to belay at top of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.   Descent: Same as Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.

Set in Panther Gorge, NY, this technical slide lies over 9 miles from the nearest trailhead. While climbing this as a stand-alone route entails a great deal of hiking, the combination of this route with a climb of the slide just to the south (they join at the top) makes a nice day of climbing. Portions of the southern slide fall in the low technical climbing range with nice lines of face climbing. Alternately, combine it with a climb of Mt. Marcy's East Face just across the gorge. 

  Face climb 15 feet up to a hand-crack via excellent stone. The crack offers bomber holds throughout. Continue to follow the crack that leads up the face over a bulge to a 1 dominant overlap at 80 feet. This makes a good belay point if you want to turn this into a 2 pitch route. Follow the crack up another 30 feet to a slightly overhanging wall. Traverse right below the wall, step down over a 6' corner, continue on easy slab to end the traverse in the woods after 40 feet.  

  Either bushwhack up through the woods to the top of the slide or back down to the beginning of the route. 

On Adirondack Rock

Follow the right-hand crack of the opposing corners. Good jugs and jams lead to a stem box with a basketball sized chockstone (crux).  

  Continue past the chockstone and follow the gully to its top.

Climbs slightly overhanging walls, steep pocketed slab and breaks through the roof system on the right side of the East Face. The view from this area of Marcy boasts remarkable views of the northern walls of Marcy and the entire Haystack massif.  

  P1 5.9- PG: Boulder up to a rectangular right-facing flake. Attain a narrow grassy ledge and make a sketchy traverse left to an obvious flake/crack. Climb onto lower angle face and 20’ up a left-rising crack. Step out of the crack and face climb to a 1’ high left-rising left-facing corner. Continue to its top and belay below the roof system. 130’. 

  P2 5.6-PG: Traverse left and step down over a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to its top. Whale flop onto a sloping vegetated ledge. Belay from cracks below roof. 80’ 

  P3 5.9- PG: Climb obvious right-facing flakes on a slightly overhanging wall. Continue up a left-rising handcrack then break right on steep pocketed stone. Continue beyond a right rising crack to a tree island below a vertical wall with a 6” wide crack. Belay from smaller cracks. 180’ 

  P4 5.4 G: Walk up a short grassy ramp to a right-rising crack. You’re now on the white streak from the 2011 rockfall down Marcy’s East Face. Climb easy pocketed stone following obvious cracks then belay from a bowl along the left side. 210’ 

  P5 5.2 PG: Climb up easy slab and belay from trees on left or cracks below cliff at the top. 110’

The name was derived from a series of mishaps during the FA. Adam's (Allison's boyfriend) eyelid was punctured by a branch during the approach and Kevin was inadvertently hit in the groin while the rope was being managed (a tight belay ledge). Allison alone remained unscathed.

P1 40': Face climb up past horizontals to opposing corners. Step up on ramp. Step down to right off block, climb right leaning hand crack to terrace and belay

  P2 30': Step into large right facing corner. Scramble on large blocks to cracks in corner and climb to top. Descent: Fourth class walk off back behind cliff.

youtube.com/watch?v=V_37YDE…

A tribute to the Edmund Fitzgerald and lichen so prevalent in the Adirondacks, this is a committing adventure on a stellar 470' line. 

  The route begins at the left-hand side of a face below a large flake and detached buttress. A huge square scoop in the face lies to its immediate left. Face climbing leads to a set of three open books, the last containing a crack where placement is critical (yellow Alien). A traverse (crux) to a seam and vertical cracks breaks a small roof before a right leaning crack with two alders and loose blocks. 

  An off-width crack mixes it up a bit; shimmy up the razor edge of the flake with one leg in the crack. The flake creating the crack is part of the aforementioned detached buttress. Belay slightly right from horizontal cracks above a 6 inch ledge. 

  Pitch two follows the left leaning OW to the lower angle face above. A network of deep fist cracks lead up to a left arching bulge above a tree-island. The third and final pitch follows up and left to an obvious chimney (10' wide) that breaks the ledges at the top. Use the face directly right of the chimney if it's too wet. 

  Rappel down the route. 

  Other Resources: 

Adirondack Rock-New Routes.

Account of the FA with photos & video.

On Adirondack Almanack

This route breaks through the center of the Agharta roof system via an airy traverse.P1 5.9+ R 80’: Gain the blank slab to the right of an obvious block. Traverse right to a small roof on the opposing wall (crux). Climb the wall on positive edges and gain the grassy ledge. Belay from a vertical crack. Falling from the first pitch crux could have serious consequences.P2 5.8+ R 190’: Climb crack to a left rising ramp and face climb to the obvious overlap with a finger crack. Gain the horizontal crack/rail and traverse left to a crack that runs up the Agharta wall. Follow crack to its end and belay from cracks in an 8’ high wall.P3 5.4 Exit via Bill’s Great Traverse 200’ G: Traverse left 5.4 under the headwall to a large spruce. Two rappels to the ground. Rappel from large trees via two rappels. Doubles needed for last rappel.

Be aware of loose blocks in this area.

 Climb to a narrow ledge about 6’ off the ground and find the short chimney with a fingercrack in its back on the right side. Climb to a ledge at its top. Gain another fingercrack in a right facing corner (crux). Climb to its top where it transitions from a corner to a handcrack. Gain another crack to the right that leads to a ledge below a gully with large stacked blocks. Climb gully to its top with solid gear on the left. Avoid the blocks. Belay from a 10” diameter tree about 20’ into the woods.

 Descent: Walkoff or rappel down route.

Follow slightly left-leaning cracks and ledges to the obvious overhanging hand/fist crack at the top.  

  The goal is to climb the most difficult line to the crux of this “fun-5” wall.

The route offers challenging face and crack climbing up a variable width crack on a slightly overhanging wall. Note the heavily weathered horizontals on the wall—quite unique up close. This is the first line on the western aspect of this cliff with good potential for adjacent options. Be mindful of loose flakes.

 Climb blocky slightly overhanging ledges to a right facing corner with a seam. Ascend the corner and follow the crack to its top in a small triangular cave. Take a few deep breaths before climbing the obvious off width to a right-rising edge and the top of the cliff.

This route would be G-rated with a #8 Camalot.Squirm your way up from the obvious ledge to good edges and the first gear above the chockstone. Continue up the off-width until it pinches down and slightly overhangs at the top. Climb into a small cave and break through the roof up to the forest. Belay from cracks at top and walk off or go up another 30’ to a stout tree, but have fun with the rope friction if you choose the latter option.

An interesting way to climb the margin of the East Face of Mt. Marcy. This enlargement of the face offers fourth and easy fifth class climbing on slab, corners and breaks through the upper cliff band of the face via a series of exposed moves to the low-angle slab at the top. 

  Descend by rappelling or bushwhacking south to the Old Slide (aka Pipeline) on the southern flank of Mt. Marcy.

Taken from the Vermont phrase meaning beaten up or beyond repair, this is also the name of Loren Swears’ and Lois Viola Swears’ band. The huge blocks at the far north end of the cliff form the majority of the route.Climb a left facing corner to two loose blocks and a ledge. Gingerly continue past the blocks to a roof and climb the off-width crack to its top. Trend right at another thin pinnacle and up easy terrain. Belay from a stout tree and walk off.

Climb fingercrack to a positive right rising hand/fistcrack. Follow to its end. Climb broken face to a small treed ledge. Rappel to base.

Hard moves off the deck and through the roof lead to an exposed arête before the slab climbing above. The roof into the lower corner was aided during the FA. P1: 5.9 A0 G 80’  Traverse easy slab to a blocky left-facing corner at the bottom of the roof system. Make a few tricky moves to an undercling then traverse steep slab to a small roof with a hand-crack that transitions to a finger-crack. Break through the roof and climb the left-facing corner to a large right-facing corner with tufts of grass. Climb the obvious finger crack on the left wall to an exposed position on an arete. Top out on a sloping ledge and belay from a vertical crack next to a small roof on its right.P2: 5.6 PG 160’  Climb slab along the grassy crack to the bottom of a right-facing corner then traverse up and left toward an open book/stem box. Climb to its top then follow the obvious crack to its end at the huge overlap that caps the cliff. Traverse left until it peters out then climb slab to a shallow horizontal and belay.P3: 5.3 PG 120’  Continue up easier slab to an obvious wall and belay from a large tree on the right. 

Stout climb with a short overhang, good feet, and a deep crack.

 P1 5.9 G: Climb along the left side of the column to an alcove at its top. Step left to a gully from the top of the column then traverse right to gain the obvious finger-crack that dissects an overhanging bulge. Critical placement of a #6 stopper in the crack before the traverse. Follow the crack past two small chockstones then make an awkward move into a short off-width. Climb to a terrace then step left and climb the arête to its top.

 Take the crack directly from the alcove to up the grade.

This is a fun, adventurous climb up a (relatively) clean bit of rock.  It rained for a few days prior to the day I got there and everything else in Panther Gorge was wet, but Bushy Pussy was surprisingly dry (a few holds on the P2 crux were damp).  

 P1: Start on the right side of the slabs in a gully and work left onto the slab with parallel vertical cracks.  Go up these cracks until they turn to tips and peter out.  Throw in some gear and make a couple pucker inducing slab moves up and right to gain the arete.  Then follow easier climbing up and slightly left to the base of a steep, dark section of rock split by two vertical cracks.  5.8

 P2: Climb through the steep face using the left-hand crack (crux - be careful of rock quality here) and then keep going up easier crack and knobby face to the dense krumholtz at the top of the cliff.  Climb/swim through this incredibly tangled mess of vegetation until you can find a tree large enough to belay from.  5.9+

 Do not expect any more technical climbing after the second pitch.  I recommend wriggling out of your harnesses, changing into approach shoes, and stashing your rope and climbing gear in a pack, because otherwise you will simply clip and knot yourself to so many spruce trees that the mountain will claim you as its own.

 P3: Bushwack up and right for a short stretch to reach a vegetated gully that breaks a low cliffband.  Thrash up the gully.  3rd Class

 Descent: Once you get to the top of the gully, head north uphill for 10-20 minutes through more dense forest to reach the Phelps trail. 

This is a great little climb to combine with another route in the gorge.    Climbs a free-standing pillar starting on the south side. Climb a slightly overhanging wall with good holds 10' to a small terrace on the southwest corner. Follow a finger/hand crack up to the left (crux). The crack slightly overhangs before a horizontal seam. Continue up the crack as it leans to the slight right where it ends on a small summit. 

  This is the first such pillar to be freed in the gorge. The best vantage point to view the route is from the base of the Panther Den Wall on the Marcy side of the drainage. 

   ...more on AdirondackRock.com

The route incorporates one of the most distinguishable features on Marcy’s East Face, an 80’ arrowhead looking flake near the bottom center. The route is a deceptively foreshortened and stout adventure climb featuring textured face climbing, layback cracks and a scary unprotected start on pitch 3. The FA of was day-hiked from the Garden in 21 hours/40 minutes with a night exit through the northern talus field.  

  After a 9 mile (6.5 hour) approach, start on the lowest section of slab below the arrowhead flake. 

  P1: 190’ 5.7 PG (easy 5th R)   Begin on easy runout slab to a right rising grassy crack leading to a right rising overlap with a handcrack underneath. Follow the overlap to its end and traverse right to a 4” crack at the bottom of the arrowhead flake. Climb past a small tree-island and belay. 

  P2: 130’ 5.5 PG    Continue up the flake to its top. Follow right rising cracks/face climb to the left side of a tree island under a large nearly vertical overlap. Belay from small crack under overlap. 

  P3: 140’ 5.8+ X    Step right behind tree island and climb a featured face for 30’-40’ feet to the first gear (5.8+). Avoid the appealing dihedral/detached block to the right. I was going to use this to climb and for pro (which the photo shows) and found it to be just sitting in place. Continue up easier face over several overlaps toward the two obvious huge blocks. Make a sketchy traverse under the right-hand block to a right facing corner and belay. 

  P4: 140’ 5.5 PG Continue up the right-facing corner with an off-width beneath to easier “moonrock” slab. Drift left to the end of the obvious broken ledges at its top. Continue up two small ledges and belay from stout trees at the base of the upper cliff band.

Last route added: 2021 December 25 (One for Me'Llord).Panther Gorge lies between New York's first and third highest mountains, Mts. Marcy and Haystack. This area hosts some of the most remote backcountry traditional climbing in the Adirondacks. As a dayhike, you’ll amass nearly 19 miles, 4,500 feet of elevation gain over 13-22 hours depending on conditions (yours and nature’s). Once there, the rock quality is excellent with a view that's awe-inspiring.There are a total of 80

routes (click for spreadsheet of routes) in Panther Gorge; 60+ new routes have been added on Marcy and Haystack during the last few years including 23 ice/mixed climbing routes. Rock climbing routes range from 5.3 to .11d YDS with most falling between 5.7 and 5.9. Ice/mixed routes go up to WI5/M5+. Earlier routes not listed here may be found in Adirondack Rock.For detailed descriptions of the gorge, trip reports and other resources visit Adirondackmountaineering.com .

Route Line Photos

courtesy of ADK Rock & MudRat* Marcy-Overall of Panther Den, Feline, Agharta, Huge Scoop* Marcy-Chimney Wall* Marcy-Panther Den Detail* Marcy-East Face* Haystack Overview* Haystack-No Man's Land* Haystack-Pillar & Ramp Wall Areas* Haystack-South End* Haystack-V Wall

Additional Resources

*PANTHER GORGE Book (2019)* Download Google KMZ File of PG cliffs.*Route History (1965-present)*Mosaic Collection;cid=7C2FB7A58FF611DF - High resolution distance photos or aerials with inset detail photos and route line may be displayed or downloaded. This also includes about 70 slides, but you may display by filename and scroll to the technical lines. Each route begins with panther_gorge. The naming convention generally follows this layout: “panther_gorge_AREA (Marcy or Haystack)_ASPECT_ROUTE NAME.jpg” .

Articles on Panther Gorge

* The Secrets of Panther Gorge in the Sept./Oct. issue of Adirondac Magazine* Adirondack Almanack* "The Wild Side-Rock Climbing on Haystack and Flash Flood at Slant Rock". 

Adirondack Outdoors* "New Highs: Backcountry Climbing in Panther Gorge." Adirondack Life 2016 Annual Guide to the Great Outdoors. 10-13. Print.* A Climbing Experience in Panther Gorge by Nolan Huther* "Panther Gorge rocks." Wechsler, Alan. Sept/Oct Adirondack Explorer. 58-61.* "Panther Gorge: The Remote Adirondack Moderate Mecca You've Never Heard of" Wechsler, Alan. November Climbing. 18-21.

Ice Climbing in Panther Gorge

Ice routes are listed on the Panther Gorge Ice Climbing page.* Agharta WI4- ****** Apex Predator WI4-5 ****** By Tooth and Claw WI4 ****** Charybdis WI4 ****** Fly By WI3* John 3:16 WI4* Just Nickel and Iron WI4-* Needle in a Haystack WI3* Orson's Tower WI3+* Passion and Warfare WI5/M5 ****** PG-13 WI4* Pi Day WI3+* Ride the Lightning WI5-* Scylla  WI4* Skip the Lightning WI3+* Sorry, Kevin WI4* Spiritus Draconis WI4+* Waking Cerberus WI5/M4 *****

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Protection

Routes in Panther Gorge