Bolted route just right of Red Snapper. Fun climb on good rock with an interesting top out, puts you in some clever positions. Well worth doing after/before Red Snapper.

Red Tide

Dover Sole

Soviet Union

Karoosh's Wedding Crack

Chicken Run

Red Snapper

Shibumi

Rubber Soul

Skimpy Skampi

A couple of steep, burly moves off the ground lead to much more relaxed thin liebacking and jamming. Not terribly sustained for the grade but you have to be able to pull the first couple of moves. A really nice route on nice rock and a good lead for people trying to break into 5.11 as the crux is low and very well protected and the rest of the climbing is much easier.

A short dihedral with a plethora of cracks and features to climb and protect in; if memory serves you mostly stick to a crack on the left face of the dihedral. Not really a bad route, but not good either.

It's also a bit of a hike from the main climbs in the area

Scramble off to climbers right.

The crack is shaped like a left-facing sickle (hence the name) and starts in a small left-facing corner capped by a roof. The thin crack above is cruxy, and the rest of the flake is quite easy. Gear Anchor, a couple green camalots will do the trick. No Bolted anchor on top.

This is a crack climb around the corner from

Chicken Run

; the climb faces north. Climb up a crack, passing a white spike of rock along the way. I believe you can even stand of this spike of rock, if I remember correctly. Continue to the top. This climb was done a few days before our friend Karoosh got married.

This is an enjoyable outing on the far right side of The White Cliffs of Dover.  It does have 3 bolts for protection, but you need to place some gear too.  There is no anchor on top, so you have to set your own. I doubt it this route gets done too often, but if  you wish a peaceful day cragging all to yourself, this might be an area to consider.

The route follows a thin crack up a slab which turns into a seam higher as the angle nears vertical. Protection is good with micro wires but it takes some time to place them. Belay from a tree atop the route and scramble off left to descend.

Excellent moves that will keep you on your toes as you hang on to place gear. The rock isn't the best down low but improves at the crux. Two maybe three stars out of five.

The name is Japanese for "effortless perfection".

This is the arete just left of the Dover Sole dihedral, described incorrectly (as being to the right) in Joshua Tree West.

As with all other routes at the White Cliffs, this route has very good rock quality.

Step into the right side one of two wide gaps, and climb a thin crack system up the steep right face, to finish at a ledge.  Not the straight seam with two little bushes but the dented curving crack just to the left, a bit hard to see at first.  Lots of ants up the entire crack.  20-plus bites per ascent.  More enjoyable if not eaten alive the whole way up.  Have never seen so many ants on White Cliffs, so maybe today's flesh chomping extravaganza was just a rare special occasion.  Walk off by traversing left across finishing ledge and scrambling down the same rocky gully down to the start.

Description

Protection

Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side