The Road Not Taken III 5.10

.

AS one reaches the Butte in front of the parking area the route takes a system of ramps on the east face. The 1st pitch takes a break in the lower wall, directly below the large spikey blocks midway on the upper ramp.

P1

: Traverse right across a flake to a short hand crack to the rocky ledge and block belay 60'. Move belay about 300'left along the ledge to the start of the massive right-diagonal ramp. Double bolt belay.

P2

: Follow ramp, at 20' 5.7 up wide crack, then easy to 5.6 step down to good ledge and 2 bolt anchor/rap 190'.

P3

: Up through 5.8 squeeze chimney to belay behind large blocks 85'

P4

: The great goolie basher

crack, a superb and unusual pitch. Most of this 180' pitch is about 5.7 .the final 20' is a 5.10 lieback into a short off-width.

Descent

: From the ledge just above the final belay, walk 300' left to rap anchors. It is essential that the first person down carries prussics or ascenders and knots the rope ends,as one does not touch rock until 40' below rap anchors. swing and get onto double bolts top of P3. or best walk to descent of

Pearly Gates

. (See new

Desert Rock IV

by Bjornstad)

First Ascent:_ Jeff Pheasant, Paul Ross, Layne Potter.. Oct 2001. To date there are about 9 multi-pitch new routes on this Butte and about 9 in the

Tombstone Area

half mile or so from the

Lost World

. Many are recorded in the new Guide book.A nice quiet area.

The Road Not Taken

Red Headed Stranger

Persistence Rules

Entreating Entrance

Kripling Groove

Howe/Ross - End of the World Crag

Golden Brown

Pearly Gates

The Choss Dispenser

Gateway to the Lost World.

Spartans at the Door

The Birthday Gift

Steep and wide.  Once you are through the somewhat chossy start, head out through the overhanging corner.  Just keep motoring, it gets back to good hands at the lip.

Strap on your cowboy/girl boots along with your goggles- it's about to get rowdy!

P1 - Pull surprisingly hard moves off the deck and climb through a serious big moves between finger pods in a seamed corner(I'm 5'6" and I managed just fine) until you reach a rest. Easy OW gains you fifteen feet to a "hmm how in the hell do I do this?" series of moves to another jug on a massive flake. Look behind the flake and thank Obeah that you are above it. More OW! Squeeze! beware of the loose blocks as you pull out the chimney. I cleaned a lot on the free ascent and I believe it to be completely safe for desert standards. Save hand-sized or larger gear on this adventure mega pitch to build an anchor in the beautiful twin cracks in the back of the chimney. 60m 5.11+

P2- On the first ascent, I went up and right. On the free ascent we went up and left. Go up and left. Build an anchor with wide gear and enjoy one of the coolest places on the planet.

Decent: Walk 30' West(toward the summit) from the rim and locate new rap rings for another climb. Two 60's got us down in two easy raps.

After searching for the summit register for hours and finding GARBAGE on the summit(!?!?!?!?) I found it and I built a small cairn on the S. Summit with the register inside.

NOTE: I did much cleaning off the ledge at the top of the first pitch. The second ascent may be sandy, but it should clean up nicely.

Located between 'Gateway to the Lost World' route and the 'Pearly Gates' route.  See Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad The very obvious right facing corner and crack.  A great climb for wide crack lovers.

P1) Climb the flake/chimney to huge flake wedged in the chimney 50' 5.7 P2/3. Chimney/layback around the roof then up corner crack to a bolt.  Here one may have to belay due to rope drag 5.10d  Continue up the wide offwidth passing bolts and large cam placements to a thin right facing corner and the top. This upper section was followed free at about 5.11+.  Awaits full free ascent as of Nov 2003.  150' 5.10d C1.

P1) Climb the corner crack to a two bolt belay .C2,110'.P2 Follow a sandy crack to a move right to a ledge. Climb free past a large blocks to bolt anchors below a superb looking 3.5 inch overhanging crack 5.7 C1 60'P3)Follow the spectacular crack leap frogging #3 and #3.5 friends to bolt anchors below an right leaning overhanging flake. 5.7 C2 90'P4)With large cams climb the flake and finish up a wide chimney to the top.5.6 C1 60'. Descent:- Rap to a long ledge from two bolts belay station located by walking the descent from "Gateway to the Lost World". An easier descent can be made down Pearly Gates . Follow the long ledge right for about 10 mins to rap anchors that brings one to the midway point on the Pearly Gates easy ramp.Walk down to a bolt that protects the last few moves to the ground.

End of the World crag is located across (south ) from the Eastern end of Lost World Butte. From the Tombstone on Spring Pointe Road take the first right after the Cattle guard,then the next right . Continue down this road for 3.5 miles... high clearence 4x4.The crag is up to the right. Walk 15 mins to the central point of the buttress. The route is to the right of some large blocks. The obvious Crack system.  P1). Up hand/fist crack to niche. Bolt and cam anchor.80'5.11a. P2)Continue up the offwidth to 2 bolt anchor.60'511a C1. P3) Layback around the right facing corner and up to anchors below a wide chimney . 70' 5.11a.. Rap the Route. FA . Jim Howe , Andy Ross, Paul Ross.

P1) Climb a few feet up a thin crack behind a large block to a ledge,then up a corner .passing a bolt to a thin hand crack. Pass another bolt,then move left to a ledge . Finish up a chimney to double anchors. 5.10 C1 100'(this pitch was followed free at 5.11+. P2) Move left up thin cracks to a roof. pull the roof and jam a beautiful hand crack in a head wall to double anchors.5.10 C1 70'. This pitch was followed at 5.11c with four points of aid.Rap the route

P1) Begin up the ramp, passed a 5.4 section at 25' to cam belays below two large cracks. 140'

P2) Continue easy climbing between the cracks to a good ledge and cam belay 5.5 60'

P3) Follow 6 bolts up the slightly overhanging headwall to bolt belays. C1 50.

From here one can hike to the west summit and register.

Descent: Rap from bolts about 80' left of the top belay anchors . One 130' rap to the ramp then follow ramp to the ground

P1)begin with TCU's up the obvious crack then up to #6 friends to surmount the roof at its top.5.9,C3,100' p2 Continue up a wide crack with #3.5 through #4 friends. then an overhanging crack to a good ledge and belay .5.9 C2 80'P3 A short bolt ladder leads up and right to reach a traverse line of slabs and pockets. Traverse about40' to a groove ,passing a drilled angle piton and one bolt.when the overhanging crack is reached just below the top ,wriggle through a tight hole to the summit. Anchors for the belay and rappel are 60' to the east(right)5.7 C1 120'Hike to the western summit to fine views and register.Descent Rap anchors are directly above P3 belay;ay . Make one single rope rap to the chimney belay ,then one double rope rap to the start of P1.More anchors for a final rap are 50' to the east.

This is referred to the "dumpy tower" near the base of Lost World Butte.  Located in between where you park and the Butte.  We named the tower "The Little Engine That Could".  The start of the route is a crack system on the left side of the tower if you are looking at both the butte and the tower.

Pitch 1- Climb the sandy, chossy crack to a large ledge and gear (pins) belay.  A2

Pitch 2- Move the belay right on the ledge and climb a wide crack leading to the summit.  5.7 A1

Descent- Rappel from double bolts to the ground.

This was the first route to reach the summit of this massive Butte. Amazing considering its closeness to Moab.The left summit has a register. The top of the Butte is very beautiful and the views are outstanding.It is truly a journey into the lost world. P1) Use #0.5 to #4  Friends to climb free or and on aid to bolt anchors .Continue up an overhanging off-width,passing two bolts to an anchor at the base of a chimney. 5.8,C1 or 5.10+ 100'P2)Climb an unprotected chimney 5.7(30') to four bolts enables an escape right to slabs and bolt belay.5.8 90' P3 Go left up an easy flake,then move right to a large ledge and traverse right to an obvious intermittent vertical crack that improves as height is gained. Climb the crack (5.7).(TCU's and small cams for pro)to a large ledge system. Belay on Blocks to the left. 5.8 200' P4)The Butte has a west and east summit . To gain the two summits ,to gain the two summits either scramble up a short slab to the left,fourth class,40',or follow the ramp to the right, which leads to the saddle between the two summits.Descent:- Rap 100'to top of P2 from slings around a large summit boulder,then 90' to the top of P1.The final rap is 100' to the ground... or rap Pearly Gates.

Starts Up 'Its a Small World'(FA Andy Ross) 5.11+ a One pitch route 50' left of the route 'Golden Brown'discribed in Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad. P1)Follow protection bolts up the first half of 'Its a small World' to a ledge then move left and up the crack and chimney 120' 5.11B. P2)Climb up left then back right behind blocks. Up large sloping corner passed two bolts to rap anchors. 80' 5.9.

Begin about 150' left of the first pitch of The Road Not Taken, directly below the obvious left facing system with the large-ish roof.

Pitch One: (5.9, 60') Climb face with intermittent pro to large ledge below overhang.

Pitch Two: (5.10 b, 90') The FA party climbed off the ledge with a shoulder stand (the only aid on the route); then follow system up to a good hand crack, undercling left, and follow the Wafer Flake to a good ledge below large roof.

Pitch Three: (Crux, 70') Hand traverse left beneath large roof, rock around corner, and grunt through strenuous offwidth to large ledge with bolt anchor atop pitch 3 of The Road Not Taken.

Rappel, or follow T.R.N.T to summit.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lost World Butte