Follow the handcrack up to and past an overhang. Trend right after a tree (dead as of Sept. 2017, may be gone in the future) up to the fixed anchors.

Train Wreck

Wednesday Wisecrack

J. D. Memorial Route

Pig in a Poke

Bun in the Oven

Pick Pocket

Low-Rise Thong

Coffee Break

Tuesday Layback

High-Rise Tightie Whities

Team Rocksport

Autopilot

Ten Point Buck

Fawn Crack

Thin Soles

Devil Wears Prana

Buck Hunter

Welcome Matt

Climb small vertical crack and flakes, trending slightly left, to a bulge. Climb through the bulge using pockets (crux), to fixed anchor.

Climb thin moves to a shrubbery in a big hole/hueco about halfway up. Continue to the top on slab.

Up some vertical cracks and small ledges to a fixed anchor.

Climb the crack and face passing huecos, small ledges, and three bolts to a fixed anchor.

Identified as the right-facing corner (that starts a couple bodylengths up) just R of Autopilot.  Getting into the corner is the crux.  The 8+ direct start was too mossy, even on the very dry day we were there, to consider.

Start at the middle crack then trend right to the rightmost crack passing numerous ledges. Find a tree and belay, then walk off (right or left).

Climb (mantle) the ledge, then up and left to a flake, lay this back to the anchor.

Follow the left and middle cracks to the top.

Gain the finger crack via small holds.  Go to top of crack, step right to first bolt.  Friction up through pockets, horizontals and large crystals clipping a few more bolts on the way to fixed anchors.  Longest route on the cliff and a fun climb.

Climb a small corner to a stance beneath an right rising finger crack.  Make a couple strenous and painful moves to pull a small overhang and gain the crack (crux).  Continue up the crack to friction climbing protected with bolts to fixed anchors.

Best climb at New Buck.  Tricky finger pockets and long reaches.

Climb to ledge, traverse right, then up face past horizontal crack to another diagonal crack and easier climbing to the anchor.

Steep, thin start to slab, with some thought-provoking bolt spacing.

Stay just right of the crack, climb following the bolt line (staying right of the crack, left of the neighboring bolted routes).  Pull the small roof.  Supposedly the route originally went up left after the last bolt, but it seems most people just head straight up and slightly right to the anchor now.

This cliff is great for having many moderates close together, with a few short lines that pack a punch. A great season opener for the volume of climbing you can get in within a day. Although the cliff is a mere 60 feet tall, the rock quality is good and climbing fun. This area is mostly concealed by the tree line and can get buggy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in New Buck