A steep face with holds is hard to find in the Waterville region, and The Steepness would be amazing were it not for the small boulders guarding a low start.  

  The idea is to start as low as possible to maximize the steep climbing. Start with your left hand on a low crimp and your right heel on a pretty obvious dish at the same level as your hand. Make a hard move with your right hand to a crisp edge, and then move your left hand to a slightly sloping hold (crux). Lock off, and follow jugs to topout. Starting higher significantly lessens the difficulty.

The Steepness

Punch to the Face

Pair of Kings

The Hangover

Pop Goes the Weasel

Start with a toe hook around the side with your right foot and a low smear with the left. Reach up and around the face to grab the sloper with a thumb catch for your right hand and a terrible pinch for your left is on the rock face. Pull yourself off the ground to gain a good crimp with your left hand Then get your right foot on the better knob and bring your right hand up to another sloper. Get your left foot on the terrible pinch and stand up to a good horn/jug thing and work your feet up as you go. After that the top out is kinda funky with a not so good sloper and smearing.  

  Have someone throw your shoes up to you and walk off the far side of the boulder. It might be kinda like a shimmy down.

Do you like compression? Want to squeeze with your whole body instead of crimping? Then give this boulder a go. 

  Start on your back under the low triangle roof. A left hand on a good dish on the left side and your right on the rightmost dish on the right side, is the starting point. Now heel and toe hook you way to the point of the triangle and then top out. Now be surprised how much fun you just had. 

  Below is a iphone video of the FA, sorry about the poor quality, I will try to get good footage at some point... Also because of the poor quality it looks like m but is on the ground for much of it, that isn't the case, its just a lowball :) 

youtube.com/watch?v=0o1RODr…

 

What a cool little problem! The Hangover climbs an arete that faces downhill at the lower part of the Skyfall Area.  

  Start standing with your left hand on the arete and your right on an awkward undercling. Work out some tricky feet and then try to technique your way up the arete. When you get frustrated with trying to technique your way up the arete, turn to your spotter(s), tell them to get ready to witness your supreme coolness, and make a big throw to the lip.

Start standing with your right hand on a good sidepull and your left hand on a crimp/dish thing. Get your right foot on a decent chip, pull off the ground and pop to the good crimp. Find some good feet and grab the jugs for the finish.  

  Have fun!

Skyfall is named because it looks like hundreds of boulders fell out of the sky and landed on top of each other. There is a lot of potential here, but the boulders are a bit smaller than others in the area. It's fun just to explore the caves created by the fallen boulders.  

  Skyfall serves as the eastern terminus of the boulderfield area and creates a barrier when you're trying to hike across the hill, especially if you're trying to go directly from The Hive to the Yellowjacket Boulder.

Description

Protection

Routes in Skyfall