This is in the Streambed Boulders (reached from the "old ass building" parking lot at the west entrance to the park). It follows the dramatic overhanging arete on the biggest boulder.Start with the left hand on a sidepull on the overhanging side of the arete, right hand on a sloper. Get a heel, go right to the perfect edge, and then make a big move with body tension or a sweet keep-your-momentum-going-left-then-right move to reach the perfect slopes up top.In my opinion, it is the best problem in Castlewood - clean, beautiful, and with PERFECT movement. A low start is kinda cool, and bumps the grade up to around V9.Watch out for snakes! I ended up falling on the right side, directly next to a bull snake. Thank god it wasn't a rattler, stay aware!

Punani

Dry Spell

The Mangler

Craterface

Troll

Pleasure By Ambush

Gerbil in a Chute

Mole Monkey Work

Start as for

Pleasure By Ambush

, at the jug begin to traverse left using any available jugs.... As you traverse, the natural line of holds forces you downward, culminating with a difficult drop-down move from matched jug three finger pockets to the starting ledge of '

Punani Low

'.  From here, finish

Punani Low

.

This is a link-up traverse and therefore detracts from the classic nature of '

Punani Low

.'  Regardless, it is an interesting challenge and an excuse to spend more time at this great block.

This climb starts in the big hueco to the right of

Gerbil in a Chute

, reaches up to the pocket on the arete to the left, then goes big to the lip!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FS3PGgyqJk

.

Sit/crouch start from a left-sloping undercling and a right mono. Throw to the sloping lip, then trend left round the blank crater in your face. This tops out slightly up and right of

Mole Monkey Work

following the lip to the horizontal up on the face.

Start laying down with left in the big hueco and right on a small sidepull.  Work your way out right to the pockets on the lip and straight up for the topout.

Start right of

Gerbil in a Chute

, under the small, chossy roof, with hands on two crimpy edges shoulder width apart and each about 3 feet off the dirt.  If you are tall, you can sit.  Otherwise, it's a crouching start.

Pull on and either huck to an obvious jug diagonally up and right, or use a sloping crimp to shorten the desperate stab.

This is really a one-move wonder that can feel hard for 7 on some days and way easy for 6 on others.

Using generous holds, top out the backside slab of the Punani Block, being mindful of loose and fragile rock.  A broken hold from here would spit you onto the rocky slab behind the problem.

Note: I gave this problem a name simply for the sake of future identification/discussion.  This line has been climbed many times over the years at different stages of its erosion.  The edges have seemed to round-off enough now that it may finally be stable.

Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the dihedral...fun technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. It is aptly named.

Sit start with your right hand on the good cobble and your left hand on a crimp a couple feet below. Trend up and left. It is delicate getting a little tree in the face for the topout.

Description

Location

Routes in Punani Boulder