Start at the left end of the cliff below the summit and above the trail. 

  Climb some flakes to reach an obvious hand crack that leads to a ledge. Climb flakes and an arête to the top.

Coren Crack

The Eleventh Wave

Ropeless, Hopeless

Rich's Roof

Fissure Hop

Start at the thin, overhanging crack that is just right of Fissure Hop.This was originally aid climbed (A1), then freed at least as early as 1985.The name comes from the Ninth Wave at Whitehorse - this is a little steeper.

Start about 100 feet to the right of the Eleventh Wave, on the opposite side of the trail.Climb a hidden, right facing corner to the top.

Start 70 feet right of Coren Crack and above the trail at a left leaning ramp capped by a ceiling.P1: Layback up the ramp then hand traverse right under the ceiling and mantle onto a ledge (crux).P2: Climb an easy crack to the top (40 feet).This route was first attempted with Rich Couchon in 08-1979. Hexes were used to protect the traverse but neither Swain nor Couchon could do the mantle. Swain returned a year later and rope soloed the route (he had obviously improved as a climber!).

Obvious overhanging crack system to the right of Rich's Roof. It is above the trail to the summit.

This is the North Summit of Sugarloaf with a few smaller (20 - 40 ft high) , almost "boulder problem" routes (by the stds of the 21st Century's "Highballers). That being said, a rope is recommended since the bases are pretty "gnarly" by bouldering standards!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sugarloaf, North Mtn