This thin crack is a short way up the boulders from Dodo's Delight.  Amazingly it is better than it appears, but pretty short on gear except at the crux.

Herbie's Hideaway

Rock Out with Your Cock Out

Lady in Grating

Dodo's Delight

Lucky Lady

Right of Lucky Lady is a crack that splits into a "vee"; this route climbs the right branch of the "vee".

Nice jamming and liebacking punctuate this short route which ends on a large ledge. Descend by rapping of anchors atop Lucky Lady.

Right of

Lucky Lady

is a crack that splits into a "vee"; this route climbs the left branch.

Entertaining jamming and stemming highlight this climb which ends on a ledge. The easiest descent is via anchors atop Lucky Lady.

This route is a moderate way to gain the top of the Houser or Dodo Buttresses if you wish to TR routes on either formation.

Start at the base of the gully that separates Houser Buttress and Dodo Buttress. Climb up a crack on the left edge of the gully (as you would to access the starts of

Dummy's Delight

and

Ladyfinger

).

Instead of moving left to

Dummy's Delight

and

Ladyfinger

, continue straight up a crack on a narrowing buttress. You'll pass a nolina and as you get higher and the buttress narrows, it becomes quite obvious there is a huge chasm on your left and a chimney on your right. The crack on the narrowing buttress eventually ends and a short section of exposed but easy face climbing leads to the top. If the route is somewhat near your limit, carry gear to a blue or grey Camalot with an extra red and gold Camalot for the crack and a double-length sling to drape over a flake near the top, before the final face climbing to the summit.

You can use the rope to wrap a large rock fin on the top as a belay anchor.

Descend down and skiers left about 20 feet to the rappel anchor atop

Lucky Lady

. Rappel with one 60m rope down

Lucky

Lady

.

Easiest to approach as for

Loose Lady

via the marked trail leading from the Real Hidden Valley parking area. Tunnel up and scramble past the base of Houser Buttress to reach this smaller, similar style rock which lies about 75' right of

Loose Lady

.

Start by climbing up a gully along the left margin of the wall (pro possible here) for about 25' and traverse right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Make crux moves past the 1st bolt and continue up past one more bolt to the anchors; rap the route with a single rope.

This is a fun route worth doing when in the area or waiting for the ever popular Loose Lady.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dodo Buttress