This is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!

Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.

Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.

Choss For Your Kitten Mittens

Daisy Duke

Time Pain Continuum

Unsentimental Journey

Unknown 5.10

This climb is the furthest left on the wall (same start as for the route Cholla). Climb up about 15 And reach left to off-finger crack in corner. Getting established in this dihedral seems to be the crux. Continue liebacking with little rest to the anchors.

Even though this is one of the easiest routes on the wall, it makes for a harsh warm-up!

This route starts on the right side of the wall. We only climbed the first pitch of this climb, so the rating I posted only reflects the first pitch (the entire climb goes at 5.10 R according to the guidebook).

Climb the right-facing corner. It starts low-angle and then steepens the higher you climb. It is fun climbing, but it could use a little more traffic.

Start up the thin hands crack, and transition to the crack on the right when possible. Delicately move around a scary block and enjoy some more thin hands to the anchors.

This is a really fun route that required alot of thinking! The only detractor was the detached block at mid-height.

This route starts about 50 feet right of

Daisy Duke

.

Start in the left-facing dihedral, and climb to the obvious roof. Plug a cam or two in and fire the crux roof on good hand jams.

This is a great route and a good warm-up!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slickrock Buttress