Pitch 1 - 5.10a

Pitch 2 - 5.4

Pitch 3 - 5.10b

Pitch 4 - 5.10b

Ledge - Move Belay

Pitch 5 - 5.7

Pitch 6 - 5.6

Pitch 7 - 5.10b

Pitch 8 - 5.10b

Pitch 9 - 5.10d or 5.10b A0

Pitch 10 - 5.11c or 5.10a A0

Rappel the route with a 60m rope

“Heads up! There is a serious rock fall hazard on this route since the addition of Flyboys. There is a loose section of the Flyboys rappel line that is directly over Restless Natives (especially around pitch 5 I believe). There was a close call last year.

For now, Burdo recommends people don't climb Restless Natives, especially if there is anyone that might rap Flyboys.

He's talked about moving the Flyboys rappel to avoid this issue. I'll update this page if/when that happens.”

- Zachary Winters, Climbing Ranger, Methow Valley Ranger District

Restless Natives

Prime Rib

Sisyphus

Flyboys

Promised Land

Methow Inspiration Route

1) 5.9, 9 bolts

. Start in a right facing corner, 40 feet to the Right of a large dead tree. 1st bolt is near head hight. Thin face crux up high.

2) 5.6, 8 bolts

. Easy ramp to 15-foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains

3) 5.8, 10 bolts

. Steep face to ledges, ending at an exposed belay.

4) 5.9, 11 bolts

. Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing.

5) Low 5th Class, 5 bolts

. "When second arrives move belay 4 feet towards gully. Extend 3rd bolt with a runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 6"

6) 5.8, 9 bolts

. Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40m south to base of wall to start next pitch

7) 5.9, 8 bolts

. Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into a crack.

8) 5.8, 16 bolts

. Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to a large ledge. Follow Cairns for 50m South to start of the next pitch.

9) 5.9, 15 bolts

. "Perfect pocket pitch", Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch.

10) 5.9, 10 bolts

. Over-hanging jugs in broken flakes lead to an exposed belay.

11) 5.7, 14 bolts

. Diagonal face leads to a clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12.

12) 5.7, 9 bolts

. Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.

13) 5.8, 14 bolts

. Continue climbing through corners and overlaps.

14) 5.9, 9 bolts

. Stay left on arête to short-face followed by traversing flake into a squeeze chimney.

15) 5.4, 6 bolts

. Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to a stance above a gully.

16) 5.8, 7 bolts

. Step across the abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. Scramble 3rd class past lone pine tree to start of 17.

17) 5.7, 10 bolts

. Boulder start leads to step face trending right.

18) 5.9, 10 bolts

. 3 consecutive 5.9+ bouldery problems lead to the exposed finish.

Prime Rib is an incredibly cool easy-moderate sport climb overlooking the Methow Valley.  Solid rock, ample protection, easy access, and a wonderful location add up to a classic and fun romp up this massive wall.

Although there are 5.9 cruxes on this climb, they are all very short and very well-protected.  Overall, the route is extremely generous in its bolting.

Pitch 1:

Begin at a small fir tree.  Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir.

(5.4)

Pitch 2:

Steep face to an anchor.

(5.8)

Shift

the belay to below a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 3:

Up the dihedral. You will pass a rappel anchor.  Continue up to the anchor on the ledge with the large blocks.

(5.7)

Pitch 4:

Climb the face above through three steep cruxes. Juggy pockets just where you want them keep the grade moderate. End in the Notch.

(5.9-)

Pitch 5:

Climb the straight-forward face above. Belay at a tree.

(5.7)

Shift

the belay to the large fir by the wall. The top of the gully is here. It is my understanding that you can descend the gully from here. It might be an unpleasant "pinball" experience down the scree. Beware loose rock from above.

Pitch 6:

Climb a nicely exposed face with a slight left-to-right traverse.

(5.8)

Pitch 7:

This pitch begins with a bouldery crux off the ledge. There are a couple more bouldery moves on this fun pitch.

(5.9-)

Shift

the belay again to below the juggy slab. There is a large fir tree here showing scars from the frequent rockfall at this spot. Beware, especially if there are parties above you here.

Pitch 8:

Climb the fun juggy slab to a semi-hanging anchor.

(5.8)

Pitch 9:

This pitch follows a short, exposed traverse to the right.

(5.4)

Pitch 10:

Traverse back to the left. You will reach a 2-bolt anchor. It might be preferable to continue up to the beginning of the next pitch and belay off of the first bolt. If you opt to belay off of the 2-bolt anchor, be sure to shift your belay before starting Pitch 11.

(Easy 5th-, 4th-, and 3rd class)

Pitch 11:

The money pitch. Begin by ascending a short leaning pillar. Stem over to the main wall, and thrutch up a somewhat awkward set of features. Beyond, the awkwardness eases, but the difficulty remains consistent.

(5.9)

An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock. Expect Afternoon sun.

1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft

2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)

3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.

4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.

5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft

6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.

7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.

8: 3rd class ledges.

9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft

10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).

Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.

***Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. If you top at the treed ledge, please do not continue higher, and do not talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible.

According to a biologist "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"

Thanks! MVClimbers

This was the first rock route established on Goat Wall in 1989. The first 450 feet of the route has been cleaned and bolted. The next nine pitches are adventure-climbing on “ungroomed” rock. Mostly moderate climbing, gear anchors, a short section of aid through on the upper pitches of the Diamond Point Buttress, and a scramble to the summit. The first three pitches are highly recommended and can be done at grade II, most parties that continue stop at the treed ledge after pitch 7, and rap Sisyphus. Pitch 3 was retro bolted in 2006.Pitch 1 - 5 Bolts, 5.6, 120 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 2 - 15 Bolts, 5.10a, 200 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 3 - 12+ Bolts, 5.10c, 150 ft (bolted anchor)Pitch 4 - Gear, 5.9+,Pitch 5 - Gear, 5.5,Pitch 6 - Gear, 5.5,Pitch 7 - Gear, 5.8,Pitch 8 - 2 Bolts, Gear, 5.9 (to treed ledge)4 more pitches, 5.11a/A1, 5.8 and 5.9 pitches and scramble to the top or rappel SisyphusRack: .01"-5" Doubles .2 to 3"; 2 x 60's is the only way off if not completed to the Treed-ledge

**Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. When you top Pitch-7 out please do not continue higher, talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible. The biologist asks: "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"

Thanks! MVClimbers

Approach by a trail 2.9 miles up from the Mazama Store, at the pullout with the Curvy Road and 45mph limit signs. The trail starts immediately behind this sign, and a wooden climbing register kiosk should be mostly visible from the road. Follow the trail up to the treeline, then the rock cairns throughout the scree/talus. As you get higher up, follow the right trending path into scree at a vague fork. The left, better marked trail continues to Sisyphus and Flyboys. The route starts at the toe of Buffalo Point Buttress near a prominent fir tree on a huge ledge at the bottom of the route. This route was established for climbers with a better lead head.

Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. When you top Pitch-7 out please do not continue higher than the top anchor, talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible. The biologist asks: "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"

Thanks! MVClimbers

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Goat Wall