Fun little chimney route. Multiple ways to climb this line and if you’re up for it, have a seat on the chair up top!

Out of the darkness

30 Seconds on Fremont Street

Winchester Pump

Saddle Tramp

Megan’s Canadian Lover

5 O’Clock Thunder Jam

Western Hoedown

Saddled Dreams

Back in the Saddle

All Is Well

Red Rider

Whips Chaps and Chains

Jabba the Hut

Hummingbird Honey

This fun route follows a flake system on the right side of the buttress.  The crack system leads to a bulging wall with huge pockets.  The crux comes in the last 10-15ft,  were the angle steepens and the buckets get larger and farther apart.

This is the lone route up the middle of the short clean South-facing slab just left of the Saddle Tramp area.  Scramble up to the rock face away from the trail and find a small bushy landing area at the base of this route.  A long stick clip might be useful here, as there is decking potential getting to bolt 2.  As many of the routes in the area, this one is cruxy down low.  A couple of big moves to small pockets.  Typical Wild Iris fare!

This is probably the best 5.11 in the Central OK area.  The climb starts just left of

Red Riders'

flake system on a slab.  Solid 5.10 slab moves lead to the bulging wall above.  The crux comes at the second bolt above the bulge.  A side pull and a couple 2 finger pockets leads to pumpy climbing and the anchors.  A fun outing that is not hard for the grade.

This is a really good route that packs a lot of punch for being only 30 feet high.   Could possibly be bouldered by crazy kids with lots of pads and all that.  Would probably go at V4 or thereabouts.

For the rest of us that actually clip the bolts, it goes like this:

Starts with a mono pull to a ledge and a first clip.  Then continues up through a couple more clips on underclings and sidepulls, all through overhanging stone.  The crux is then a wicked couple of crimps to pockets.  Then one more clip and a thin pocket before the anchors.  Burly.

Beautiful thought provoking movements on good crimps, edges, and pockets with good feet up lovely rock. Moderately sharp.

Climb the clean right facing crack. The bulge by bolt 3 is the crux. There are good hand jams and pockets both left and right of the crack. Stemming and jamming make it fun!

We only wish it was taller!

Originally led on gear and then bolted

Stick clip first bolt. Committing climb with bouldery start on interesting holds up the steep to the flake. Pull past the flake and run it to the chains.

Start with first few moves of Saddle Tramp, but go to left side of crozly bulge and cruise through pockets and underclings to the anchors.

Climb the vertical face on pockets and edges. I recall thinking it was a little sharp.

Pillar between two dihedral cracks. Climb the brown rock onto the horizontal break, continue up the pale face on thin holds and pockets until you get to the lip of a right leaning crack. Work your way in, and over the bulge. Ride it to the top.

Just right of Saddle Tramp (which is itself just right of a big dihedral that holds a cruiser jug haul of a 10b).  Goes up and right through big holds to the sequency crux which involves a kind of long move off some shallow two finger pockets.  Follow the bolts from there up a brief slab to the anchors.

One of the worst routes at the OK Corral. It is quite stout for 5.8 and I often see beginner climbers get smacked down into the Rankor pit by "Jabba the Hut". Use a thermal detonator.

Mantle onto the first ledge and clip the bolt. Surpass the bulge by utilizing gastons, shallow pockets, and bad feet. After the 3rd bolt the climb is basically over, except for the slabby choss that guards the chains.

The anchor is higher than it should be. I would avoid this route, unless you live for anti-classics like me.

Start on thin holds with decent feet and continue climbing onto pockets that only get bigger as you get closer to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Saddle Tramp