Winger is awesome! Solid for the grade, this climb starts with a powerful roof sequence which quickly leads into more powerful climbing until about the 6th bolt. One more crux move under the roof and some trickery around it lead to the anchors. Good rests abound on this wonderful climb with comfortable clipping stances.

Winger

Kick Axe

Super Atomic Night Shirt

Poison

If you are looking for nothing but a good time then get on this route.

This has a rugged start on some sharp holds getting out of the roof, then move left into a sidepull and a tiny right-hand hold.  This felt very hard for the listed grade at 5.12a - maybe V5 with not-so-easy climbing above.

If this route is named after a glam rock band, I've never heard of them. And I am a rocker. Back in the days of my mullet, I listened to all of these bands, Skid Row, Pantera, Faster Pussy Cat and probably a bit of Winger until Bevis and Butthead made it cool to hate them. Heavy metal and glam rock were a huge part of my life (still is) and to have an entire wall devoted to the music that made my adolescence tolerable is quite an honor. But Super Atomic Night Shirt? Who the hell are they? Of course, there were a billion of these bands during the 80's and 90's that had one hit on the Head Banger's Ball and then faded off into obscurity. They played a club, got a record contract, became addicted to drugs, went bankrupt and some of them get to play the state fair every once in a while. But I imagine the guys in Super Atomic Night Shirt are probably golf caddies somewhere right now. 

  Where am I going with this? 

  Oh yeah! This is a good route with a weird name. The yellow canyon guide book goes on some diatribe about not using a crack or something. Screw that! Do whatever you want! Rock on! It's a fun nine with some neat moves and I remember having a blast on it several years ago when I was on a climbing date with the rockin' chick I eventually married. I haven't done it since, but it's like a hair metal song worth playing at least once before you get side tracked by Nirvana and the rest of those grunge pussies. 

  Seattle rock and roll. What the hell was that all about anyway? I remember winning Pearl Jam's Ten CD at my Senior Prom. For some strange reason, at the time, listening to that album caused me to burn all my hair metal tapes and made me want to wear flannels. When I started college, and wanted a change in life, I stopped listening to metal for a while and got into Morrissey and Concrete Blonde...and now, I realize my mistake...but that's another story.

Glamrock is a cool wall with a huge roof at the bottom which appears to have been chipped and subsequently "repaired" upon close inspection. Regardless, the rock is beautiful, the climbs are hard, and the area beneath the wall is protected from rain and flat by spearfish standards.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Glamrock