Probably the hardest thing in the state currently. Never been done and only a glimpse of the truly hard climbing on the river.  An even harder extension exists above the anchors.

Grey Matter (open project)

Wicked Wench

Black Pearl

Luchador

Calypso

Cobra

Pirate Booty

Queen Anne's Revenge

Violator

This route starts by climbing to the upper left portion of the detached flake. HEre one departs onto the face for an immediate showdown with a desperate sloper. After this sustained thin climbing leads up and over a bulge on some wicked coral-ly crimp features. A second crux resides 10' above the bulge and has been done with a normally wet pocket to the left or straight up with desperately small holds and cryptic movement. This route can be a first pitch to the looming arete of Violator, as they share the same anchors. It can also be linked into Violator in a single pitch. Be wary as a 70m will barely get you down.

Climbs a vertical face on small crimps and pockets up to a challenging smooth section with slopers and micro crimps. The second pitch has yet to be sent.

Begins with a boulder problem on a semi detached but solid flake system heading up and left to an obvious dihedral. Burly and strange climbing gets you to the top of the dihedral with a crux getting through a short roof and onto the face above.

Climbs a near vertical slab with small holds. The entire first pitch is consistent with stacked boulder problems after the initial thirty feet of climbing. The second pitch has not been done but after the anchors busts through a steep roof and then into a wicked dihedral lined with pockets and sculpted crimps.

P1, ~90'. Climb the white flake to the top then venture up and left into the dark and sometimes dirty face. The anchors are on a ledge below a huge dihedral. P2, ~50'. Climb the massive dihedral with bomber gear and a few bolts.

A good moderate with sometimes cryptic climbing. The crux is the first 20' of the second pitch which uses some some holds and funky moves. P1 can also be linked to the anchors on the first pitch of Violator for the easiest way to access the sweet p2 arete.

Nail a short boulder problem off the deck to a smooth grey section below a bulge. Get started o the crux with good underclings and sneaky feet to a dynamic move to make the lip of the bulge. Hold it together for another 30' of thin face climbing to the anchors.

This route hosts some of the sickest and most exposed arete climbing in the entire Midwest. P1, 80'. Climbs a dihedral system with a few challenging moves surmounting a bulge after the first 20'. The second pitch begins with some small crimps moving up to a delicate traverse left to the bottom of the arete. Climb up the dihedral for several feet then hand traverse a rail to massive holds on the arete itself. A good rest can be had on the rail once you're poised on the arete, make sure to look down and enjoy! Good grips follow the arete until a mantel over and onto the slab above at the last bolt. 

Sunny shortly after noon. Encompasses the bluff beginning at the large white streak that makes up the most impressive section of the wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pirate's Cove