This route is deceptively difficult for a 5.6 (Or I was off route which is certainly possible). But at the start, moving to a small roof, moving left found me wondering about it's rating. Once around the roof and it felt 5.5/5.6. The best part of this route is the start. It can be done moving up from the left side as well. But that would take the fun away on a pretty uninteresting climb. Something to do while in the area doing the better climbs. But not one to seek out.

Rip Off

Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail

Ditch Witch

Which Bitch

Witchy Woman

The Terminal Man

Spaghetti Sauce Sunset

Sand Witch

Which Witch

Boulder Crack

Request Chimney

Andromeda Strain

Big Bad Bitch

Bitch, Bitch

All That Glitters is not Golden

Hurricane Hugo

McDonald-Wilson

Stakeout

Two Our Surprise

Dance On a Dragon's Back

Bolder Face

This is the chimney to the right of "Andromeda Strain".

Start about 40 feet up and left of

Bitch Bitch

in an alcove in the gully.

Climb a short hand crack to a horizontal, then step right into a corner. Thrutch up the corner to a sloping ledge. Face climb up and right with no pro to reach a wide flake/crack (purple Camalot). Climb the corner to the terrace at the top of the face.

On the upper tier of AFPA Rock, above

Which Bitch

, is a block with a short crack/right facing corner on it.

Climb the crack/right facing corner past a ceiling to the top of the pillar.

the start is super easy and progresses to a better climb. Beware of the dead tree at the start as it could pose a slight problem if one should fall upon it's broken branch... There is some fun stemming,edging and face work on this one...Not a true "Crack" per Jtree style... Wide, flairing, with an occassional finger/small hand jam. Deffinatly worth doing if you are planning on doing the others on AFPA formation...

On the upper tier of AFPA Rock, above

Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail

, is a block with three short routes on it. This is the center of the three short climbs.

Climb an obvious, left facing corner that is capped by a ceiling. Continue up the face directly above the corner and ceiling.

Expect sparsely protected face climbing with occasional protection in intermittent seams on this fun but challenging route. One star out of five.

This is one of the better routes on AFPA and takes a nice line up the far right side of the west face.

Climb a crack in dark rock passing along the left side of a small roof and finish with some nifty moves past a bolt. Lots of quality climbing for such a short route with some good moves throughout.

While this is certainly not a classic, it is a worthy obscurity worth checking out. Seldom will you see climbers on this route or in it's vicinity - they will all be found gearing up for the nearby Boulder Crack, which redefines the word CLASSIC!

On the upper tier of AFPA Rock, above

Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail

, is a block with three short routes on it. This is the rightmost of the three short climbs.

Clip a bolt and then make the crux moves up into a corner. Climb the unprotected face above the corner to reach a flake (TCU here), which is followed to the top. Medium to large cams for a belay.

The start is the fun stuff, but the climb has a bit of variety that makes it worth a shot. Close to the road with easy access and just a couple routes to the right of Andromeda Strain, afternoon sun, and to top it off, right next to a few other fun and relatively easy climbs. After finishing, drop off then head left to a small slab for the walk off. Easy!

This route is on a boulder that is separate from AFPA rock, but easily visible from the road. Starts off with an overhang, crack then goes vertical. Crack offers good jams, and features on the outside of the crack offer good edges.

Start to the right of the crack, face climbing past a bolt, to join the crack which is followed to the top. One star out of five.

This is the crack system immediately left of Which Bitch, which becomes a flared,  overhanging dihedral with a thin crack.

This is a loose, poorly protected crack/face near the left end of the main AFPA wall.

Climb the face between Andromeda Strain & Terminal Man. Work up the shallow left-leaning groove, left of the center of the face, to a shallow right-facing corner. At mid-height pull over the overlap up the fiction face with a smooth groove/seam. Friction up the groove to easier climbing and a final bulge.

This route is on the north face of AFPA Rock. Start 15 feet left of

Sheltered

.

Climb two finger cracks separated by a ledge, then climb the slab above along a shallow, left facing corner (crux).

This climbs the poorly protected face to the left of "Andromeda Strain". I really can't see any way to safely protect this climb. There was a bolt, but it is gone, Start near the left side of the face and do some lieback moves then move up friction to a scoop/hole. Move up a shallow corner/groove with a gold pocket, then a shallow , right curving finger crack leads to a ledge beneath a headwall. A sheered off 1/4" bolt and additional hole will be seen. A horizontal crack/groove moves left. Move up on to this. A hidden undercling hold is useful. Once on this horizontal, climb the thin face above, following the line of least resistance. This section, to me is the crux. Move up and right to a slightly overhanging Crack/corner (5.9/10-) to the top.

It's a good route, but would be a scary, dangerous lead.

On the far right side of the south face of AFPA Rock, at a point just left of where the rocks come closest to the road, are two stacked boulders with a right leaning finger crack/seam.

Climb up the two boulders using the right leaning cracks/seams.

This thin crack system is at the right end of the main AFPA face.

This route has never made it into either the big guide book, or Joshua West. There is a pillar or fin of rock between Zsa Zsa and Bitch Bitch; this route goes up this pillar.

This is a short, steep, fun face climb.  It's around the corner to the right from the route Boulder Crack, on the same boulder.  Climb a steep face (no protection) to a crack that takes gear.  Continue to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in AFPA Rock