Rusted Razor is a short, high quality route set in a beautiful mountain setting, far away from any crowds.

The route begins from a wild, rocky gully that drops down from the Quartz Garden plateau, offering grand views of the valley below.  The route can be approached from below, scrambling up from a trail that heads north from Ironsides, or from above via a trail that passes the Cube on its way to the Quartz Garden.  The approach from above is perhaps easier, as descending the gully was much more fun than ascending.  Follow the directions as for the Quartz Garden, but instead of veering north out into the open plateau, head south through the forest and find the gap between the large rock formactions that make up the south side of the Quartz Garden.

Rusted Razor scales the face of the rock island that makes up the right side of the rocky gully.

Five bolts head up the wall, the crux 5.8 moves at the last bolt on the headwall.  Although rather short, the rock texture and quality, fun moves and aesthetic position made this a crowd pleaser.

Rusted Razor

Garden Weasel

Little Wing

Set among pine trees and a sandy atoll, the Garden Weasel fires up a short, prominent tower which oversees the oasis that is the Quartz Garden.  The route is not all that exciting, but what the heck, you're already in a great spot, why not clip a couple of bolts and enjoy the scenery.  The zen garden earns this climb one star.

Once you've found the Quartz Garden (see access details), walk north out into the clearing.  Rock walls hulk in numbers all around.  You'll see a detached tower overlooking the Garden and obvious bolts mark the route.

The crux of this climb is getting to the first bolt.  You can boulder up to a mantel or you can traverse in on a shelf from the left.  Either way, don't fall making the clip, it would hurt.... Once above this bolt, the climbing opens up with huge holds leading the way past two more widely spaced bolts.  But save for a bee sting, lightning, or heat stroke (all possibilities, really), you should cruise easily to the anchor.

Just down the hill from

Rusted Razor

, a good-sized ledge juts out over the rocky gully with a steep, smooth face rising above.  Little Wing starts from this ledge and follows three bolts up the pretty face to the top of the rock island.  The setting alone affords two stars, but the (current!) need for Derry-do to set up an anchor at the top and its short stature may detract from its overall quality in some climber's eyes.

The first bolt is a high one and is compounded by small holds for the clip.  With a hearty sigh, continue up the challenging face past another bolt to easier ground.  At the final bolt, it is possible to escape left to ease the second crux to 8+, or continue straight up at 10b.

This route could be called Missing Wing, for as of Summer 2001, the bolts at the top were missing hangers.  But, pre-inspection after an ascent of

Rusted Razor

will ensure you bring the right gear to back up a couple of "Stopper Enabled" bolts for a safe anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Quartz Garden