Chossy start in the crack. About 1/3 of the way up you can keep stemming on the right or climb the face on the left. Eventually you will pull onto the face if you stay right. Big huecos over halfway up make for a good resting spot. They are likely large enough to sit in.

Texas Tea

Honeybee

Vasectomy

Gun Show

The Alamo

38 Special

Brachiation Dance

Black Gold

Tusk

El Diablo Rojo

Too Many Cooks in the Kitchen

Girls With Guns

Cave Dweller

44 Magnum

Soldier Of Fortune

The Nose

Carefully climb the crumbly slab and nimbly traverse around the large detached block to reach the 1st bolt. Above the block the rock improves considerably. Move left and follow the wonderful pockets, inclusions, and features through the black patina-like varnish. Near the top trend left to the anchors. Great moves on awesome features above the 1st bolt.

Climb five or six feet up the slab that forms the base of the gully between the Elephant Head and the pinnacle (Elephant's Ear). Stem right, clip the 1st bolt, and pull onto the prow of the pinnacle. Continue pulling knobs, small pockets, and inclusions up the face, as it steepens. Work up and left across the middle of the steep, featured slab. Near the top of the slab work to the right and pull the bulging headwall to a break, being careful of the honey comb and bees in the  break. Here climb the right side of the face as it narrows to a rounded arête. Continue up the arête, then trend left on pockets and knobs, as the face widens, to the steepening pocketed upper buttress. Large pockets lead to the anchor.

Begin climbing at the middle of the ishtmus between the caves. Climb features and pockets to a steep headwall. Continue climbing the headwall on inclusions, features, and pockets.

Starts with a left leaning boulder problem up the slightly overhanging face past two bolts to a good rest. Pumpy jug climbing, with several pretty good rests, trending left midway and then up the the base of a steep bulge. Difficult boulder problem past a few fixed chain draws to the fixed anchor.

Make exposed moves off the elevated platform to reach the high 1st

bolt

. A mistake here could result in an awkward tumble off the terrace and down the slope. A stick clip or spotters would be prudent. Continue stemming and pulling features up the shallow groove past twelve more bolts on inclusions, cobbles, and occasional pockets.

Starts up a easy slab past a bolt to a rest (same start as GWG). Head up and slightly right past three bolts on steep pumpy jugs, past several fixed chain draws to a only ok kneebar rest. Get your ammo ready and start gunning difficult steep, big moves past three more fixed chains draws to the fixed anchor.

Climb out the steepest portion of the roof of the large black cave on the east face of The Chicken/Hyperion Slab through a sea of pockets of all sizes. Crux move from a sharp mono-digit.

Beginning on the slab at the right side of the cave use a pocket and cobbles to reach or dyno for the top of a large cobble. Traverse left above the cave. Continue on features and pockets as the face steepens. Climb over a couple bulges to large embedded blocks. Move right above the blocks on pockets to a final pull to a great pocket to clip from.

Starts with a difficult boulder problem roof, followed by pumpy climbing to the base of a steep bulge to long reaches on the face above to the anchors.

Pull a bulge at the beginning, then climb an easy apron slab to the headwall. 2-3 bolts worth of climbing on a vertical headwall gives the climb the grade.

Starts up a easy slab past a bolt to a rest below a basketball sized boulder at the bulge. Match on the basketball and start cranking steep jugs and reaches with few rests up the rib past a large boulder to a steep bulge. Tricky boulder problem past a fixed chain draw leads to hero jug moves to the fixed anchor.

Climb the left side of the smallest cave on large cobbles and side pulls. Exit the cave past the remains of a crumbly flake and continue climbing on features and friction to the anchor. Cave Dweller begins in the cave between "Don't Mess with Muleshow" and "The Nose."

Monkey up very steep rock to a tough boulder problem between the 2nd and 4th bolts. Rest on a large block before tackling steep moves on deep pockets and slopers to a second rest. Finally, some vertical 5.11 climbing will take you to the anchor.

Start up the tongue on jugs past two bolts to a steep bulge. A difficult, tricky boulder problem up and right gets you to easier but still pumpy jugs with a few ok rests to a small roof and a chain draw. Slightly thinner holds with some reaches past a couple more bolts lead to a fixed anchor

Start just left of the cave, pull the overhang, then cruise through slab to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Face of the Elephant's Head (The Caves)