Right of Musical Skinheads, slabby start, mantle a ledge and thin, thin feet on an arete.

Sucky the Cow

Pazuzu

Bat Wings

Musical Skinheads

Cheep and Juicy

Pazuzu is a beautiful, technical and thin pitch that climbs with a little bit of spice. Named after the demon of wind and drought, this one might leave you with a thirst for more. 

  An easy enough start leads up to a stance. From the stance reach out and blind place crux gear. Take precautions to place this gear correctly...  

  From stance, transfer into and underneath the cruxy headwall. Move through the steep and technical boulder problem to a leaning stance and eventually into the mantle.

Slabby start to pinches on the arete left then a jam, place a cam (BD #3), pull an overhang, crimps to a crack place a nut and top off.

This route has would be great if it were a little more sustained. It does explore some interesting terrain and offer some fun moves.  The weirdness comes from the first two mini pitches. P1: is basically a v2 boulder move on to the top of a cave at the base of a big impressive white wall. 2 bolts.  P2 goes up about 10' through a few crazy gas pockets and then traverses out off the ledge past 3(?) bolts to a spicy move to the base of a dihedral. Attentive belaying will keep you off the ledge. I would say this is the crux at 11a.  I may be over rating it but it would really suck to break your ankle way the hell up in that canyon.  P3 is fun stemming and face in a right facing corner.  Some small blue alien sized pieces up high get you over a bulged to a 10'(?) section of hand crack.  The Final belay offers a great view and a ledge that feels like it's way the hell up there with a beautiful old tree. You can tell not many humans have hung out there and its a nice place to drink some tea and enjoy the amazing view.  Two bolts and 60m rope return you to your pack.  Climb this thing and tell me what you think!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Chute Area