Easy to get to, and easy to climb. This route is characterized by big jugs and huge ledges for feet. Should be an easy climb for beginners. The start can be made harder or easier by a couple feet left or right, the overhang gets more significant the further left you walk. The crux is the last move before the anchor, a big reach up and right to a flake projecting from the formation on the climber's right.

Doin' Great Sweaty

Rope Drag

If you take the overhanging bit at the beginning, this is probably a 5.7.If you take the staircase to the southern side of this route, it is a 5.4.The overhang is the crux by far, everything else is quite easy. The route is typified by the wall, with good protection using a range of small to medium cams and/or nuts. I only used cams.

This crag is about 30’ high and 30’ wide. The rock appears to be a metamorphic volcanic, with many incut horizontals. Watch out for loose rock and poison ivy. A geocache is located in a red plastic box under the right end of the crag, and shouldn’t be disturbed. There are two fixed anchors at the top, a chained tree on the left and a bolted anchor on the right. It’s fairly easy to scramble up the gully on the left (west) side to reach the top. On toprope, one can climb pretty much anywhere (assuming one can overcome the big overhang at the bottom). If leading, there are moderate routes on the left and right sides of the crag, with reasonable protection using a selection of cams from thin to 3”.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bond Brook