This thing was pretty bad. Myself and two friends wanted to get on the North Ridge, but it was packed, so we jumped on this pile. I remember the rock felt like climbing out of a sandbox. All pro was pretty shotty I used two medium cams, and I remember clipping a screamer to a nail (normally a nail would be slang for pin or piton, but no, by nail I mean a small rusty nail hammered in the rock). When I look back, it was a great adventure but one I would not recommend to most unless you like to scrub you drawers after a climb. Later that year we went on to the Warren Johnson route and I thought the rock was more solid for a comparison.

South Ridge

West Face Direct

North Ridge

A short 5.7 chimney gains the large ledge, then it heads straight up the face to the tower anchors. The climbing is thin and delicate with some crumbly mini-conglomerate near the top. This could make for an exciting sport pitch were it to be bolted.

This is super classic. It is one of the best 5.7 climbs in Colorado, and it ascends the narrow North ridge of Montezuma's Tower, offering up good moves on reasonably solid conglomerate sandstone, tremendous exposure and short cruxes. Usually it is done in two pitches, although it is possible to do it in one pitch with a 60m rope. Keep in mind that you still will need two ropes for the rap off.

Begin at the base of the North ridge, climbing unprotected but moderate rock to the first of three giant eyebolts (5.7). Run it out up the ridge (5.4), threading a pothole along the way if you feel uncomfortable, until reaching a small ledge which, in 2021, has a glue-in eyebolt and pin (previously a 3-pin belay - one of the pins could be pulled out by hand but due to its orientation, provided good protection). If you wish, you can rap from this ledge.

Pitch two is a short one, moving past a short vertical section (5.7) to the summit and a 3-pin belay.

Rap off to the West with two ropes (or one 70m rope).

Description

Protection

Routes in Montezuma Tower