The Bottom Falls Out climbs a wall/corner on the right side of the main face of the Yellowjacket Boulder. Start sitting with good crimps and bad feet. Make a big move to a jug, make another big move to the lip, and work left to a huge pocket on the lip to top out. Finally, negotiate 30 feet of easy slab to the very top of the boulder.

The Bottom Falls Out

Phillip Rivers

Rose Trillium

Cakewalk

Little One

Short Sale

Trillium Right

Cavaletti

The Big Short

Trillium

Trillium Sit

Rock Shop

Boulderers Rejoice! There is now a difficult route on the breath taking Yellowjacket Boulder that doesn't require the mental fortitude of John Bachar. 

  Start with your hands crossed in two unique looking geode pockets and get right down to business from the moment you pull on. Make a long move out right to a side pull jug and then readjust your feet to set up for the crux. Using speed and accuracy, move your left hand up into a side pull pocket that doesn't feel as good as it looks. Once you have the left side pull, tap dance you feet up and prepare for the final hard move. Launch right to the long awaited jug at the lip and then roll over on the slab. Walk up the slab to the top of the boulder and down climb on the opposite side. 

  At the top of the boulder resist the urge to look over the lip of The Big Short. This decision would make it more difficult to eventually muster the courage to attempt the true 5 star line on the boulder.

Jump start to a good hold/small rail, make a couple moves, then top out. The route is mediocre overall but still worth doing for the top out.

Rose Trillium is an indirect start to the mega-classic Trillium. It takes a 10-move path through the coolest holds on the left side of the Yellowjacket Boulder's main face.

 Start sitting down and left of Trillium with your left hand on an edge and your right in a big pocket. Use feet down low in the pit. Pull up, make a stylish rose move to the two finger pocket, and roll out of the rose move into Trillium's starting holds. Finish as per Trillium.

 Because of the pockets and the movement, this climbs more like a limestone sport route than the typical granite boulder problems around here.

Get onto the slab and friction straight up to the top. The hardest move is getting onto the slab. At the top there is a psychological crux but the move is solid. Top out and walk off the back. 

Little One is a fierce little problem on the far left side of the main face of the Yellowjacket Boulder.  

  Start sitting just left of Cavaletti, with a low sidepull for your left hand and a crystaly crimp in the corner for your right. Make a move up to a cool, shallow two-finger pocket and then pull hard to stab your right hand to a crimp.  Move left to an ear-like sidepull, come in to a right hand sidepull, and throw to the lip.  

  Both the left corner and the good holds on Cavaletti are off.

Yet another variation on Trillium, this tops out right of the original finish. Start as per Trillium, and make the big move to the good pocket. Match the pocket and make another big move out right to gaston a small left-facing corner feature. Top out straight up.  

  There are many linkups possible-- the best being Rose Trillium Right (V7) and Trillium Right Sit (V6)

Cavaletti is a perfect warmup on the far left side of the main face of the boulder. Start in a corner and climb huge pocket jugs to a friendly topout. Every boulder should have a line like this.

The Big Short is the most obvious, striking line on the tallest, steepest part of the Yellowjacket Boulder. The hardest moves are concentrated in the first 10 feet; however, the climbing on the upper wall remains relatively tough (mid 5.11) and is definitely heady. The Big Short is a tall problem; at Rumney, it probably would have been bolted.  

  Start in the scoop with your hands matched on a big sidepull/undercling. Make a move up to a pinch and figure out how to get your right hand in a high picket (crux). Surf out left to some cool crystally holds, and make deadpoint-style moves up the face until you reach a good ledge. Make sure to grab the left or center of the ledge, as the right side of the ledge devolves into a dubiously thin flake. The moves from the jug to the lip are just hard enough to keep your attention given the height.   

  In the fall of 2015, Tim Kemple Jr. added a sit start that clocks in at V8 or 9.

Trillium climbs up the central face of the Yellowjacket Boulder and tops out at the shelf at about two-thirds height. Start with your left hand on a sloping sidepull and your right hand on a sloping crimp. Make a dynamic move to a good pocket and follow crimps and pockets to a tricky move to the lip. Top out on the ledge. 

  The climb is so named because one of the pockets up top is filled with three perfect little stones. All three wiggle in the pocket, but can't be pulled out. It seems like there should be a lesson there.

This is a harder, and arguably better variation to Trillium. Start sitting with your left hand on a good edge (the starting foothold for the Trillium stand), climb up crimps to get into the position of the Trillium stand problem. Finish as per Trillium.

Rock Shop climbs the face between Cavaletti  and Trillium. Start crouching with your right hand in a cool two-finger pocket. Work your way up the face, taking care not to stray too far left into Cavaletti. Top out as true to the line as possible.

An impressive, tall, featured boulder, the Yellowjacket Boulder may be the best yet found in the Waterville Area. The boulder sits high on a slope in a peaceful wooded setting.  

  Whereas many of the boulders in the area are characterized by a lack of holds, by some geologic anaomaly, the Yellowjacket Boulder is covered in edges, jugs, and most interestingly, pockets. Climbing on this boulder feels more like climbing on limestone than on granite. This boulder has something for everyone. It's got lowballs, highballs, easy, hard, and moderate problems, all with pretty good landings. There's still potential for other stuff too.

Description

Protection

Routes in Yellowjacket Boulder