"The Green Mile" climbs the wonderfully pocketed steep face on the far right side of The Egg Cup buttress. It is easily seen to the left as one walks up the trail into the shady First Corridor.

Climb the face left of the rounded flake on splendid pockets to a high 1st bolt. Continue up and right following the line of pockets to a large inclusion on the left. The pockets end and the face bulges out to yield a committing crux on small fingery edges, then more pockets to a last bolt and a series of awesome moves to an anchor on the headwall above the ledge.

The Green Mile

Slotterhouse

Jailhouse Rock

Texas Chainsaw Massacre

Urushiol

Egg-zillaration

Unknown

Poached

Marshall Law

Texas Slotterhouse

Cereal Killer

Boneyard

Egg-Nostic

Walking On Eggshells

Begin pulling pockets to a series of large coarse inclusions. As the wall steepens, continue climbing on knobs, small edges, and the occasional pocket. Above the 5th bolt moving to the right, on small polished cobbles for footholds, yields a series of small pockets that lead to the anchor.

Begin at the left side of the rounded buttress below the large scoop and upper headwall. From a hard to see slot (for the left hand), climb an assortment of polished and sloping cobbles, small pockets/scoops, and edges to a very large coarse-grained inclusion. Continue up the lower angled slab to the aforementioned headwall. Pull the headwall on edges, a great inclusion, and shallow scoops & pockets, to an anchor above the ledge.

Head up and left thru a low angle bowl, then up the steeper left side of the bowl to the anchor on the ledge.

Texas Chainsaw Massacre begins with a series of good-sized, but

shallow

pockets. Pockets lead to a stance below two large inclusions and the 1st bolt. Continue up the featured face on edges, cobbles, and an occasional pocket. As the angle of the slab decreases so do the number of pockets, and the footholds and handholds become smaller and less secure. Insecure friction, small smooth cobbles, and palming lead to the anchor. The top section once spit off the infamous Medusa for a good twelve foot leader fall, while he was spraying about being a 5.13 climber and how over bolted TCM was.

The crux of this route was once avoiding exposure to the clusters of Poison Oak occupying the base of the route, but that threat has been removed. The high level of choss has been mitigated by the cleaning efforts of Jack Marshall and Tony Sartin to the establish the routes "Marshall Law" and "Poached," respectively. The easiest way to access the ledge and anchors on The Egg.

Ascend the west face of The Egg, past 5 bolts. Chimney or stem up the gap between The Egg and the west wall of Texas Canyon to reach the 1st bolt. Pull pockets over the bulge, moving left to right on steep featured rock to the top of The Egg. Beware of loose rock and the poison oak at the base of this route and on either end of the gap between The Egg and the west wall of Texas Canyon.

Climb up really good holds, some of which are kind of chossy. Pull a couple of small bulges, all while enjoying just how nice the holds are. Perhaps reachy at times? Could use some cleaning, then it might be 2-3 stars.

Climb an easy slab up to the base of the Egg and steeper rock. Boulder up past a pair of bolts to clip a fixed chain draw that protects the crux. A long move gets you to a positive crimp and easier, slabby climbing up to a lower off near the top of the cliff.

Head up slightly chossy rock, just right of the chimney, to the first bolt below the overhang. Start cranking difficult moves to get past the overhang and established on the steep face above. Continue up tricky, moderately difficult climbing past more bolts to a spooky move going from the overhang face to the slab above. Shade in the morning.

An interesting variation that incorporates the challenging beginning of Texas Chainsaw with the exciting finish of Slotterhouse without the thin finish on Texas Chainsaw. Begin on Texas Chainsaw Massacre. Climb up between the two giant cobbles. Continue climbing to clip the 4th bolt of TCM from a softball sized cobble at a weakness. Move left to the right side of the enormous scoop and clip the 5th bolt of Slotterhouse. Finish up Slotterhouse. This is a 6 bolt linkup of Texas Chainsaw Massacre and Slotterhouse.

Climb the left side of a blunt pillar past a bolt. Step up off the pillar, clip a bolt and make a difficult move to the right (crux). Continuously tricky and engaging pockets and edges lead to a good stance at the chain anchor.

Egg-nostic climbs to the summit of The Egg via the right side of  the scoop and overhang, above the ledge between the Egg Cup Buttress and the top of The Egg. From the anchor for Boneyard & Texas Chainsaw, mantle onto the lower portion of the scoop and climb the slab to the 1st bolt. Continue either straight up on pockets and features to the lip of the overhang, or move right from the bolt on small pockets, pull the overhang to better, deep pockets and knobs above the lip. Continue up the knobby upper face to the anchor, below the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Egg