Two new first-pitch variations added 4/18/2007.

Pitch 1a: Begin just left of

Botonga

, solo up easy rock and climb past 3 bolts (5.9) in a dihedral to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 1b: Climb the line just left of pitch 1a following 3 bolts (5.9) to a new 2-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. You may need to temporarily clip the anchor to the right to get to the upper anchor.

These two separate new anchors eliminate the rope shredding problem.

Pitch 2: Move right past the anchor for

Botonga

and wonk your way straight up placing the gear until the bolts are reached. The crux (5.8) is the short traverse right at the 2nd bolt.

Like a Wonk

Faulk You

Hound's Tooth

Git 'Er Done

Leave No Trace

Munchkin Roof

Where's Ron

Free at Last

Wonky

Release the Kraken

Beer Dog

Brace for Impact

Botonga

Canine Corner

March Madness

Tinnitus

Quick Work

This is the small roof, twenty feet left of

Like a Wonk

. If you are short like me, make your way around the roof with a combination of undercling/lieback and secure finger locks. If you are tall, apparently, you can just reach up for the jug, ~5.6.

Make your way up easier terrain. When the pro runs out, make your way right to the mussy hooks.

The roof is quite fun, the rest of the route is nice but not memorable.

“Faulk You” is a line that got put up at the start of the 1st lockdown on March 18th. This line starts out on a southwest lichen face with a small crack on a right-leaning ramp. Place one or two small cams in the crack, then you’ll find four brown painted bolts there after. After the last bolt, you have an easy runout to shared anchors with

Beer Dog

. This route will clean up better with more people getting on it. “Faulk You” shares anchors with

Beer Dog

. This can be led entirely on bolts if you choose to walk up the ramp to clip the first bolt. Faulk You is bolts only 10c or 11a/b if you start on the small crack with gear.

The route name is a tribute to my dad, and the name came years ago from students back at Fairview High School who took a picture of my dad flipping off the camera, who was an administrator at the time. The students proceeded to make T-shirts and sell them at Fairview, with the picture of my dad flipping off the camera and the words Faulk You (last name Faulkenburg).

Hound's Tooth is a new variation to Beer Dog.   It shares the first three bolts with Beer Dog, then breaks right and climbs an airy "hound's tooth" arete.

Start as for Beer Dog, at the top of the approach trail to the Lower Tier, at the bottom of the rappel gully.

Scramble up broken rock to the buttress just left of the gully.  Climb Beer Dog past the first three bolts, with some difficult (10b) moves past the second bolt.  After clipping the third bolt, break right onto a slab.  Clip the fifth bolt with a long runner, then move left and up to the sixth bolt.  Continue up to some jugs and swing left onto the arete. Make some airy moves up the arete to the anchor. This finish is 5.9 to 5.9+; easier if you're tall.

This is an OK route with some interesting moves down low and then again above the last bolt. Incut crimps and small feet lend some character to the route, but don't expect too much in 40 feet.

We first TRed this climb on Earth Day, so I chose a name that was appropriate for the occasion. Follow 4 bolts of continuous climbing until the angle eases. The first bolt is low and the hanger is placed upside-down to keep the rope out of your way. From there, Aliens & 0.75 or #1 Camalot can protect the climbing to the anchors atop Botonga.

We waited for Ron, but he never showed up!

Solo up easy rock to first bolt where the rock steepens. Follow the right-facing dihedral. Move at 3rd bolt might be harder for short people. After 4th bolt, follow easy rock (to the left of the bush) and up then right to the anchors for

Release the Kraken

.

This route climbs the prominent V-dihedral high on the wall, 20 feet right of

Leave No Trace

.

Start from the trail, directly below the dihedral, and just left of a cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail.  Climb up slabby  rock steps, placing gear and passing one bolt, to the base of the steep dihedral. The climbing in this initial section is mostly easy, with perhaps one 5.6-5.7 move along the way. There are some runouts on easy ground getting to the crux dihedral.

Clip a bolt on the left wall of the dihedral and prepare for "the business". The third bolt (second bolt in the dihedral) is the crux.  Move to your right on the face to avoid the sand bag in the corner on the left.  High-quality technical moves with a counter-intuitive "down-move" brings you to a key sharp quartzite intrusion.  The top dihedral is worth 3.5 stars but is downrated due to the easy start.

Lower from an anchor at the top of the dihedral (70 m rope required).  There is no stance at this anchor; it is meant for lowering only. It might be possible to lower with a 60m rope if you scramble up to a shelf about 20' above the trail, and belay from here.

If you only have a 60m rope and want to belay from the top, continue up another 20 feet to the anchor atop the second pitch of

Like a Wonk

.  Belay from here on a decent ledge.  From this higher anchor, two rappels will get you back down.  Do the first rappel to the anchor on

Botonga

/

Leave No Trace

.  From here, rappel to the ground.

It is

like a wonk

, only harder.

Start at the 2nd pitch of

Like a Wonk

.

Follow it until the first bolt is reached, then traverse right to the arete (crux) clipping 2 bolts. Continue to the anchors of

Like a Wonk

.

Begin as for

March Madness

clipping its first bolt. Then follow the kraks (sic) up the middle of the cliff. Loose rock has been removed, but expect it to feel like a first ascent.

This is a fun new sport route on the lower tier of the Bihedral, at the top of the approach trail.  It starts just left of the bottom of the rappel gully, below a rounded black-washed buttress.  Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top.

Scramble up 25' on broken rock to the base of the buttress.  Make the first clip and let the fun begin.  Climb up steep rock, with a difficult move past the second bolt.  Work left to a stance, then up to a V-corner.  Stem up the V-corner past the sixth bolt (2nd crux), and work left across a slab to the anchor.  You can weasel out at the sixth bolt and step left onto a slab to avoid the difficult stem, but what's the fun in that?

Belay from the top, or lower 90' back to the start.

The name "Beer Dog" is a bit strange. It comes from a recent incident at a south Boulder brewpub involving one of the first ascensionists.  Seems a friend was giving his dog a drink of beer on the patio, when a woman at another table took exception to it...ask Mike for details.

This was done on the 1 year anniversary of the Miracle on the Hudson. So, I named it in honor of that event.

Good hard moves through the bolts. Place a #1 Camalot size above and right of the last bolt and climb straight up easy rock to anchors.

This route is not marked in Rossiter's Bihedral section of the Boulder Canyon book and is not apparently described on this site yet. This seemed to be the buttress 'below' route #1 in Rossiter's topo. From the normal approach to the Bihedral, just before the scrambling starts off of the trail, take a sharp left and go west to a short buttress with several bolted routes on it. This is the second bolted route from the right, starting about 15' left of

Leave No Trace

.  See ?beta photo?. We found this route after the westward walk-off from the Bihedral route.

The route is safely bolted, but without long slings, the rope runs funny, particularly between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (or was it 1st and 2nd) where the rope goes sharply left over a dark sharp corner/flake. Using 2' sling on the lower and upper kept this a little better. It's not a bad climb, there's just not much to it. Rap from the rings to keep from abusing your rope; don't lower off.

Does anyone know the history of this route?

Addendum:

There is a 2nd pitch with 3 bolts, a #1 Camalot & orange Alien can be useful, 5.8, 70', 2-bolt anchor. See

Like a Wonk

.

Canine Corner is a new variation to Beer Dog.  It starts on Beer Dog, then breaks right a climbs a right-facing corner and slab.

Start as for Beer Dog, at the top of the approach trail to the Lower Tier, at the bottom of the rappel gully.

Scramble up broken rock to the buttress just left of the gully. Climb Beer Dog past the first three bolts, with some difficult (10b) moves past the second bolt. After clipping the third bolt, break right onto a slab at the fourth bolt.

At the fifth bolt, you can move right and up the edge of the slab (5.8), or continue straight up the right-facing corner (5.10).  Near the top, layback (5.8-5.9) up the corner to the anchor.

This is well-protected at the hard moves. After the 5th bolt, angle left on easy rock to the anchor. Be careful with a 50m rope. Expect lichen.

See

Where's Ron

for photo.

This was named in honor of Bob's current affliction.

Solo up easy rock to first bolt below overlap. Clip 2nd bolt and get ready for small holds and bad feet. The crux comes quick and often. If you are under 5'8", it may be harder.

Not much to say here of cruxes, but any difficulty on this climb comes from the holds either being less than obvious or sloping rather than incut.  A reasonable climb for beginners to warm up on and get into the lead-head before moving on to harder climbs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Lower Tier