Pitch 1:

(5.8, 100')

Move up and right past an undercling roof to a long flake crack, past a small tree. Head left up a ramp/ledges to the large ledge below the prominent p2 crack. Sling a flake for an anchor.

Pitch 2:

(5.9, 100')

Climb the phenomenal hand/fist crack, using face features as you go. Once above the crack, slightly runout face climb past the hollow sounding flakes to the top (most placements are suspect in this section, climbing is about 5.6 though). Build an anchor or sling a large bush/tree.

Descent:

2 rappels from chains 20' climbers right. Use the newer, better midway chains further down and to the rappeller's right on a good ledge. Skip the old chains in the middle of the face.

Aerial Book

Coming of Age

Livin' on the Edge

Frick

Frack

The Royal We

White Line

Return to Sender

Doo Doo Man

Another great addition to the west face. Climb the bolt line up the clean arete/face on the HUGE flake. Crux is pulling through the cool undercling near the top.

You can clip the chains and link up to the base of P2 of Aerial Book with some easy scrambling and short section of 5.8 crack.

Descent:

Rappel route.

This route is not as wandering as the photo implies.

Climb the right trending crack to a horizontal seam. Move left through good holds to clip the first bolt. Climb straight up past 3 more bolts, then angle right towards the lower right corner of the roof (a tad runout). Plug a cam or two, and pull over the roof on good holds. Angle back left past one more bolt to the anchor. Very balancey and thoughtful movement. Good stuff!

Descent:

Rappel route.

Fun, clean slab climb. Crux near the 2nd bolt will make you think a bit. Very runout after last bolt, but easy climbing. Still, don't fall.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Stout start up past a horizontal seam gains a good ledge to clip 2nd bolt. From here, either mantle up then left. Hard move. Avoid the thin flake, as it probably can't handle too much abuse. Runout after last bolt, but easy climbing. Still, don't fall.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Pull over the initial crux bulge (have an attentive belayer) and weave up crimps and features on the clean steep slab to a ledge. A small tree can be slung as a directional anchor on the ledge, with the chains atop P1 of Dwight Bishop's Time Warp serving as the main anchor.

This line climbs the lower face and then up the prominent hand/finger crack in the middle of the wall.

P1: Climb the large, low angle right-facing dihedral with a large tree in it. Head left above the dihedral towards the base of the crack. (5.7)

Alternatively, climb P1 of Aerial Book.

P2: Enjoy the easier-than-it-looks hand/finger splitter to a bolted anchor at the top of the wall.

Descent: 2 Rappels. Midway chains are down and rappeler's right.

Crimpy, slopey slabfest with a crux right off the ground and a second awkward crux section around the 3rd bolt. "Awkward" meaning route reading makes apparent the notion that the best method on this short section is layback climbing, but this plan kinda falls apart when you're actually doing it. Bouldery bottom, TC heaven thereafter.

Face climbing, underclings, a small roof, and lie-backs, oh my! Go very easy on the horizontal flake above the 2nd bolt. Better yet, avoid it. You don’t even need it.

Descent:

Rappel route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in King (West Face)