Lots of fun moves. If looking lots of 5.0-5.3 climbing mostly on positive holds, this is the route.

. . (formerly called "Trail Slab - Face Left").

. . (Cleaner than the "Trail Slab Face Right" route).

. . Could also be good for climbers just getting into sport leading, since spacing of most of the bolts is fairly close. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

For connecting to bolted sport routes going higher up to the top of the Silverhorn mini-peak, first there is a rope with a knot, attached to a sustantia mature tree above left from top of this route -- which the Leader could use to make an anchor to belay the followers up to gentle area on above the top of this route.  Next from there walk right (N) horizonally parallel to the top edge of the cliff to reach the standing dead tree. Next could follow the route "Divine Martine" (or more difficult, "Remix").

directions

: Go roughly straight up to the top anchor, starting between right-facing corner and small buttress.

. . . (or could  stop at the mid-way anchor).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Salamander

Blazar

Trail Slab - Right Corner

Trail Slab - Left Corner

Shelves - Wander Left

Trail Slab - Right Gully

Trail Slab - Face Right

Central - Left Ridge

Central - Left Overlap

Right Squeeze

Obelix

Far Right Face

Central - Left Corner

Trail Slab - Middle Prongs

IceCube

TS Short Squeeze

Right Edge

Central - Right Overlap

Shelves - Wander Right

Decent climbing at that difficulty grade, but short -- with no distinguishing feature to make up for that. Another climb to do from the mid-way anchor for TS Left Corner.

directions: Start a few feet right of right-facing inside corner. Roughly straight up, passing just right of obvious bulge 10 ft up. Next continue up, staying right of the narrow dirty gully. About 8 ft lower than the two-bolt anchor to the left side, step over left, then up to that anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Lots of interesting moves with holds at unexpected angles.

Start between right-facing corner of "Obelix" and small gully of "IceCube".

Roughly straight up staying between those two routes, passing a small overhang along the way. Near the top can trend right to the two-bolt anchor of "IceCube".

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Interesting moves in a variety of rock situations: face/slab + corner/dihedral + arete/ridge.

Three drawbacks:

* breakable rock zone in the obvious direct line of the corner - - >

see Photo

* zig-zag of the route (to avoid the worst of the breakable rock). In Top-Rope mode, need to use directionals to prevent falling climber in upper section from swinging sideways down.

* start is shared with another route (but can be made independent).

directions

: Start same as the route "Right Gully", where the approach trail meets the wall, just right of the small light-colored buttress, on rock which is just left of dirty gully just left of 8-10-ft-high rock.

. . Alternate Start: Alcove under around the left side of the 12-15-ft-high detached flake - which is the real bottom of the left-facing inside corner of this route -- but the obvious approach is a loose dirty scramble . . . however see Variation 1.

Up a ways on rock (staying left of the dirty gully) trending a bit right. When reach the 2nd bolt, traverse horizontal right about 10 feet (just above the loose gully) into an alcove under the left side of a 12-15-ft high detached flake.

. . Variation 1: Shorter instead to aim to get near the main left-facing inside corner 20-30 ft above its base, at the 4th bolt

From the 4th bolt, up the left-facing corner a ways until meet darker jagged rock - [

see Photo

]. This rock segment has some very positive holds, but the hold or a larger chunk of rock could break off - (and just below this segment is a light-colored triangular rock which is sitting unattached). So avoid this segment of the corner. Instead traverse left about six feet, then up a short ways until above the darker jagged rock segment.

. . (It is tempting to try to step right below the dark jagged rock to reach a inverted triangle / sharp pyramid rock about 2 ft high on a ledge. But this rock is loose, and anyway the climbing above it is

much

harder than the main route or Variation 2).

Now see a bolt in the corner on its right wall (above the dark jagged rock) -- with another bolt about 3 feet up right on the arete above the right wall of the corner -- and another bolt about 10-12 ft up in the corner on its right wall.

Choose from two bolted lines . . .

Main route keeps it simpler . . . Continue up in the corner to the higher bolt in the corner then move right onto the arete just above that bolt.

Variation 2: More interesting (and tricky to keep the difficulty from getting higher) to step right around the arete below the lower bolt, and up along the right side of  the arete by the next bolt.

. . . (Perhaps most interesting is to step right to the arete below the lower bolt, then directly up the arete staying left of the next bolt. No single move is harder, but

finding

the holds in combination to avoid harder moves is trickier).

. . . (If doing this Variation on Top-Rope, make sure to set directional protections on the two bolts which are below the top anchor).

One more bolt then finish to two-bolt anchor with ramshorn.

. . If continuing on higher to sector Moynier, the leader can scramble above the top anchor about 25 ft to a tree, which as of 2018 has a static rope attached that could be clipped as an anchor (but then likely still want to belay the followers from the lower two-bolt anchor).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Thoughtful moves in two parallel low crux sections (choose one first, then get lowered and try the other), then some interesting face climbing in upper part.

. . Also a 5.4 version (nice enough) alongside right which could use the same top anchor (but perhaps not the mid-level).

top-roping

: There are two Top-Rope anchors available. The upper anchor is a a bit below the top of this slab, a few feet below and left from the two-bolt top anchor for the route "Salamander". The mid-way anchor is close under some trees above left from the right-facing corner (below and quite a ways left from the mid-way anchor for "Salamander"). The purpose of the mid-way anchor is to reduce the problem of rope stretch if the climber on top-rope falls near the ground when using the upper anchor with a normal dynamic climbing rope. Also might reduce side-swing if the climber on top-rope falls on one of the "corner" moves in the lower half.

Since this route has no intermediate bolts for leading, each anchor is most obviously reached by leading (or otherwise climbing on) the climb to the right ("Salamander"), then rappelling or getting lowered or down-climbing on below from one of the anchors on that route.

directions

: Start at the base of the large right-facing corner which is at the right side of big overhang. Up on rock just right of corner for about ten feet to a bulge. Next up in the corner using holds on both of its sides. When not finding holds higher in the corner, exit left outside onto face, up a step or two on that, then swing over right back into the corner.

. . Variation 1 (similar difficulty, different kind of interesting climbing): At the bulge instead go straight up staying about two feet right of the corner and left of mossy gully -- using holds both in the corner and on the right edge of bulge (but not the mossy gully).

. . Variation 2 (5.3): At the bulge instead step right into the mossy gully and up (fun enough moves)..

Above the corner and bulge continue on easier holds up left side of face (with thick vegetation to the left side). Once past the vegetation see small buttress of light-color rock about five wide going straight to the top.

Step left above vegetation and go straight up just left of the buttress (5.6), roughly to the directional bolt. Or perhaps a bit harder if step farther left and go up through notch/groove.

. Variation 3 (5.4): Straight up the buttress to the top.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Four interesting sequences each with a different rock style.

Up the center (a bit right) of face of detached flake. Next step step down left behind top of flake to under overhang.

Straight over the overhang, and up to roof.

Pull the roof, then diagonal left up to steep face.

Up left edge of steep face.

. .

Variation

(more interesting): Instead go up left-of-center on steep face (5.10b).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of moves around the difficulty grade.

. . Needs more cleaning of vegetation and dirt and loose rocks, especially in upper part.

Up about ten feet on rock, then step Right about five feet above vegetation. From there roughly straight up, staying roughly six to ten feet left of left-facing corner. Finish in shallow gully.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of 5.0-5.2 moves, if that's what you're looking for, but much of the rock in the upper part is moss-covered.

. . (for a cleaner route of similar difficulty, see "Trail Slab Face Left".

top-roping

: Several ways to reach the top anchor to set up for top-roping: (a) Lead the route "Middle Prongs, then step over right about six feet from its top anchor; (b) Lead the route Salamander, then rappel or down-climb on belay or get lowered (all with risk of injury from side-swing to reach the top anchor for the route "Middle Prongs"; (c) After somehow climbing the route "Right Corner", continue above to the two-bolt anchor above left from its top anchor, then rappel or down-climb on belay or get lowered to reach to top anchor for this route.

directions

: Start up the right edge of the small buttress (likely with hands on the elevated edge of the buttress).

Then roughly straight up to two-bolt anchor below top of cliff, staying left of small gully.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of thoughtful moves sustained in difficulty.

Up the ridge. When it seems to disappear, look up to find where it re-appears. Perhaps a bit of weaving, climbing some on left or right side of the crest of the ridge. Finish at the 2-bolt anchor shared with the route just left of this one.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Tricky but unremarkable low crux, but most of the rest if much less difficult.

Up to and over the very small roof of the (lower) left side of overlap, and on up toward about 10 feet left below the standing dead tree, finish by angling up right to theh

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of good practice standing on small footholds.

Start near right end of this wall, between small alcove and loose vegetated gully.

First aim up toward the 3rd intermediate bolt of

the route "Right Edge"

. Then trend left to keep a few feet away from the right edge of the wall, to finish at the mid-way anchor for

the route "Right Edge"

(which is at its 5th intermediate bolt).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Variety of fun interesting moves all the way, sustained in difficulty.

. . (formerly called "Central - Right Corner").

Connects well to a higher two-pitch climb in sector 8 Moynier.

Up to the top of the right-facing corner. Next up through the left side of two small roofs (or up whitish dagger then step left 5 ft). Finish up left side of small whitish buttress to its top 12 feet right of the obvious standing dead tree.

. . Variation (easier): Instead finish left of the whitish buttress toward the top anchor for the route "Central - Right Overlap" or to the standing dead tree.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Lots of interesting moves.

directions

: Start at small alcove about 10 ft left from the edge of the wall.

Aim roughly straight up toward the mid-way anchor for the route "Right Edge" (which is the 5th intermediate bolt of that route). About two-thirds of the way up, the rock above gets more difficult, so find the best place to go diagonal left about 5-7 ft (crux), then aim up toward a bit left of the top anchor for

the route "Right Edge"

.

Variation: Start on the face right of gully and left of small alcove -- slopy holds, perhaps around 5.8.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of interesting fun moves, and a thoughtful crux sequence about a quarter of the way up.

Needs more cleaning especially in the upper section.

Up along the right-facing corner (perhaps nicer to take it mostly outside left), then before its top go Left + up (crux, with many possible combinations of holds to find and try -- those lacking reach or strength can substitute cleverness).

. . (Variation 1: getting into the inside of corner and going up over its top is likely more diffficult).

Then up mostly dark mottled rock staying well right from the vague ridge up to a two-bolt anchor.

. . (Variation 2: For a more difficult finish, above the corner stay more right).

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some interesting moves.

Crux is near the top, so it's about one grade less difficult if stop at the mid-way anchor.

directions

: Start at bottom center of the small light-colored buttress (where the access trail meets the cliff).

Up to the top of that small buttress (first prong). Next up to the top of the second prong. Finish roughly straight up to the top anchor. Or could stop sooner at the mid-way anchor.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Interesting moves the whole way.

Start on right edge of small gully below the two-bolt anchor which is between the bolt anchor for the route "Obelix" and the top bolt anchor for the route "Right Edge".

Roughly straight to the top anchor, over at least one bulge along the way.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Lots of fun positive moves on an arete.

Could be used as a first pitch to reach routes ("Mamba" + "Right Low Corner") on lower right of

sector 8 Moynier

, by stopping climbing at the mid-way anchor at the 5th bolt, one move up onto the rock above the anchor then walk right a short ways to the "low right" base of sector Moynier.

Start at the right edge of the continuous rock of the right-side slab (just left of somewhat broken gully).

Climb either just left of the edge, or directly on the edge / arete. Try to avoid touching anything right of the edge / arete because there is greater chance of loose or breakable rock.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Thoughtful moves on small footholds through the first half, then easier (and mossy) to the top.

Up through the underclinging small roof of the right side of overlap, and on up to the standing dead tree.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Three interesting sequences each with a different rock style.

Up the right side crack on right side of face of detached flake.

Step left, then up along left side of bushes, and on straight up into dihedral. Next traverse Right about six feet to below crack.

Up the crack and diagonal right, finish straight up to right side off cliff-top bush.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7-Lewis