Pitch 1: begin on slabby, thin right-angling crack until you reach a small ledge before the main crack. Follow this hands+ sized crack (slightly flaring but plenty of good pro) until you find a small alcove more than halfway up to build a gear belay.

Pitch 2: follow the main crack to the summit. When the crack begins to angle left, it widens to a chimney. If you want to haul large cams, you can protect for a while, but you will eventually have to run it out on 5.7 slab to reach the summit of the formation. Belay from a bolted anchor at the top.

*This can be done as one mega-pitch.*

Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between Blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.

Blastoff

Better Dead Than Bored

Pitch 1: head up the amazing finger crack for 30-40 feet using fingerlocks, pod jams, and face features. Blow through the small, left-leaning corner until you reach a ledge at the base of the huge, right-leaning corner system with a roof. Belay here, 5.10d.

Pitch 2: stem, jam, and work your way up the corner system, traversing right on the slab under the roof. From a ledge, continue up the corner system until you are atop a large boulder/flake. Head left on the slab ridge to the summit. Belay using the bolted anchor. 5.8ish

Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Falcon Buttress