After a discouraging boulder problem off the ground, the route pulls onto a ledge and into a juggy stem corner. Work your way through the easy climbing to a delicate finish on small holds.

St. Ides

Brother Speed

Flowers and Bunnies

Bitch Magnet

Brother Speed features long, powerful moves between flakes, edges, and pockets, separated by decent rests. Two distinct cruxes guard the chains: a long, lateral reach to an undercling pocket at the fourth bolt, and a dynamic pull to gain the final bolt. Excellent positions and challenging movement.

An ugly duckling of the Projects area. Flowers and Bunnies climbs an easy, juggy slab for the first three bolts, until you're forced to climb the narrow ramp. Teeter your way up the ramp, looking left, right, up, down, and deep inside yourself for hidden holds. You may not like it, but that's okay. Someday, he'll be a swan.

Walk up the left-facing ramp and lean over to clip the first bolt. Walk up a bit more, grab the bucket, clip the second bolt, and get down to business. Make a few big crosses and long moves between huge pockets and get ready for the crux at the last bolt.  Crank down on a few crimps, paddle helplessly at the footholds like you were tossed into the pool for a swimming lesson, and lunge for the jug to finish it up. Great climbing!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bitch Magnet Area