This is by far the most popular route in the Fisher Towers, and a moderate classic. The route goes at 5.8 A0 if yarding on bolts, or can be free climbed at well protected 5.10.

P1. Climb easy 5.4 broken rock to a huge ledge. If you are free climbing the route, belay here to avoid rope drag. Climb a 4 bolt ladder to a big belay ledge at the base of a chimney. 5.10, 120 feet.

P2. Climb a really fun and well protected 5.8 mud chimney for about 90 feet to a belay on the right.

P3. Climb a short steep crack to a 3 bolt ladder. 5.7 A0 or 5.10, 40 feet.

P4. This is one of the coolest pitches in the desert. Walk 20 feet along the sidewalk(narrow extremely exposed ledge). Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board, and walk to the base of the corkscrew. Clip 4 bolts/drilled angles en route to the summit.

To descend, lower back to the diving board, and reverse the sidewalk. Rappel to the party ledge, and then make a double rope rap to the ground (60m ropes).  It is also possible to rappel the route with a 70m rope, but it is not recommended as you'll be a nuisance and danger to ascending parties.

Stolen Chimney

The Hippie Route (North Summit)

Fun History Fact! This was the original FA on Ancient Art!

Use the same approach as to get to Stolen Chimney.

Pitch 1 is shared with first 4 pitons of Stolen Chimney, walk right 200 feet onto a sandy slope, belay from here. No fixed anchor. From the sandy slope climb up to the arch (5.8). Clip and continue left to a large ledge. Walk 50 or so feet the the base of the obvious chimney.

Pitch 2 Climb the (5.10+) chimney to a spacious ledge with two big boulders on it.

Pitch 3 Climb down into the cleft behind the ledge and climb a crazy off width/ squeeze chimney (5.8) for 40 feet to another roomy ledge. Walk right on the ledge to the bolder pile and mantle up to the prominent ridge to the summit. Walk left on the ledge to a rappel anchor.

Pitch 4 Be careful,there is no fixed gear on this pitch. Walk back to the right and mantle on the the summit. There are no fixed anchors on the summit you must go back to the anchor at the top of pitch 3. Route can be broken up into more pitches for rope drag dilemmas.

Descent: Walk back to the ledge of pitch 3 and rappel twice back to bench and walk to a tree and rap of it or down climb the start of Stolen Chimney.

Description

Protection

Routes in Ancient Art