Start on the right side of the main face, best approached from the base of Tin God/Abstract Roller Disco by scrambling up and left through boulders.

Begin at the highest boulder up and left from the start of Perverts in Power. This is about 75 feet to the right of Compassion of the Elephants.

Pitch 1: Climb an unprotected ramp (class 4 or easy 5th) just beneath a prominent right-slanting crack and set up a belay at a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Sustained moves (10+/11-) lead up and left past 6 bolts to a nice ledge and 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Climb easier slab (5.7+/5.8-) past 3 bolts to the top, and another 2-bolt anchor.

Two rappels from here (both less than 100 feet) get you back down to the base.

Sky's the Limit

Torturer's Apprentice

Official Rubber Tester

Trespassers Will Be Violated

Compassion of the Elephants

Tin God

Perverts in Power

Crash Course

Connie's Big Step

Skyfall

Go For Broke

Feeling Groovy

Groundhog Day

Gun Shy

Abstract Roller Disco

Top 40 To Middle Toilet

Toprope the face directly below the Sky's the Limit anchor.

Tricky moves (11-) lead straight up the headwall for about 15 feet, then make a difficult (11-) traverse left, followed by easier slab climbing up to the anchor.

This is a classic, full pitch face climb.  Steep, pocketed rock requires careful move planning, but the climbing is not strenuous.  It is the first route that starts to the right of Tresspassers Will Be Violated, and which crosses that route.

Extreme friction climbing through 3 bolts to the dike. Traverse the Trespassers dike to finish.

On the large west face of Little Hunk is an obvious rising dike system. Trespassers follows the entire dike up and right to reach to top of the formation. It is easily the most obvious and compelling line on the formation and the first route done on the face.

A High School Junior named Matt Cox showed up with bolt kit in hand, ready to make the first ascent. But as Matt started up the dike, he soon found a bolt, then spotted 2 more. Thinking the route had already been climbed, Matt put the drill away and proceeded to climb toward the top. In the process, he kept it calm as he encountered the 10c crux, some 15+ feet out from the 2nd bolt.

Later, Matt and Spencer learned that the route had been bolted on rappel (considered very bad style back then) by climbers who intended to come back and add a few more bolts before trying to lead it. Matt's bold lead nixed thier plans for a FA.

The route was named for an old "No Trespassing" sign found near the vicinity of Abstract Roller Disco and the feeling derived from leading the route. In the 1980s, Charles Cole and Steve Anderson added a new route that crossed Trespassers (Gun Shy). One of the bolts on Gun Shy now provides additional protection for the crux of Trespassers, making it an exciting, but reasonable lead.

The rightmost route on the face.

Start from the top of a boulder, thin face climbing leads to the first bolt before the horizontal break. Getting established above the break proves to be problematic, and the climbing up and then over to the crux tends towards the unbelievable, being quite thin. The crux itself involves making even thinner moves to gain an undercling flake.

The long and lonely leading above is not as difficult, but is certainly thought-provoking with its sparse protection (only 2 bolts on this section).

Extend the lower clips to avoid rope-drag.

Start off a boulder and climb a crack until possible to step right onto the face proper. Once on the face thin edges and steep smears lead up and right out of a scoop to a lower angled finish and shared anchors with Abstract Roller Disco.

Continuous slab climbing on good rock with a distinct crux sequence make this a worthy route. Two stars out of five.

Begin at the extreme right side of the great southwest face slab, at a low point at a gap between boulders. The start is marked by a bolt about 20 feet up. Above the bolt, angle up and right on steepening slab (5.7 R) to a horizontal crack (3 inch pro). Bust crux moves up and left (5.9) to a second bolt then climb a brief right-facing corner/flake. Above the corner, wander up and left on easier, but runout (5.6 R) friction slab to a belay ledge. (2 to 3 inch gear anchor).

Descent. Walk about 30 feet left to a 2-bolt anchor, then make two rappels to descend.(Both rappels are less than 100 ft.)

Alternately, you can solo off (exposed class 3) left (north) across the top of the face, then down a smooth slab (class 4) on the north shoulder.

The next route right of Go For Broke.

Face moves lead, nervously, to the first clip. A long step right on steep rock and then up, somewhat technically, leads to an easement of the difficulties and then clip number 2, but don't relax; the meat of the route follows...

The climbing past the next 2 clips is steep, intricate, covert and lacking in positive holds. Best described as frantic smearing. Enjoy!

Begin from boulders on the far right side of the great southwest face slab, up and left from the start of Perverts in Power. Climb 4th class up and right on a low-angle slab that steepens, with a few harder (5.8 R) friction moves leading up to the first bolt. (This is the original line; to lesson the seriousness of this section, you can now belay at the Sky's the Limit anchor, or clip it for pro).

Climb steeper face past 2 more bolts (5.10c) then cruise up easier slab climbing past 2 more bolts (5.7) to a small flake (2 to 3 inch pro). Continue up the slab to a belay ledge with a bolt anchor.

Descent: Two rappels (both less than 100 feet) will get you back down.

Alternately, solo off left across the top of the face (exposed class 3) and descend a smooth slab down the north shoulder (class 4).

This route is on the left of the face. It is identified by a flake at the base of the climb (about 20 feet up, above an easy slab).

Head up to the flake and climb its righthand crack to the top of the flake. Steep tricky face moves lead to easy runout cruising. Moving from the final bolt is the crux and will make you stop and think.

A good introduction to the face.

very strenuous cranking and stemming up a chute; scary but fairly safe

This sustained slab route, like most of the routes on this side of Little Hunk, affords decent quality climbing and sometimes engaging moves but needs a bit more traffic to clean it up.

The 5.11 crux comes early in the vicinty of the 3rd/4th bolt but there's another tricky sequence (5.10+) at the 6th bolt and sustained 5.10 slab climbing with spaced bolts all the way to the top.

This is a technical and sustained slab route that is worthy of more attention and with more traffic it will clean up nicely (it may also make it a bit harder).

Climb friction and edges crossing through "Trespassers will be violated" the crux comes after you pass Trespassers.

Gear anchor.

Approaching Little Hunk's southwest face from the Echo Rock Area one will notice a large flake leaning against the main face, which is where this route is located.

Start off a boulder near the left arete of the flake and climb past two bolts, traverse right midway, and finish up past two more bolts and a bit of a runout to the top. Descend by rapping off anchors on a ledge atop the route. Please note - A 50 meter rope just makes it down from anchors atop a ledge.

While the rock isn't the best Josh has to offer, the moves are good and the position on the flake is unique. Overall, a seldom done but worthy route for those who like J. Tree thin face/slab routes.

This thin face route is at the left end of the west face.  There is a bolt down low and a second bolt near the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in SW Face Left (Trespassers Wall)