Off-width, several feet to right of Look Mom, Friends.  Work your left shoulder into crack, work up, inside and outside of crack until you get near the top, then turn left and use good hands on left wall to exit to easy rock.  Sorry, it's about a 1/2 star rating.

Gollum

Left or Right

Look Mom, No Friends

Slammin' and Jammin'

Tossin' and Flossin'

Follow the fist crack as it trends left up the face, then hang a hard right and finish up the ramp.  Mostly <=5.6 climbing except the bulge at the start, which is easily protected.  This would be a decent beginner trad lead. 

  This description is based on the 1981 guide.  The 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide also has a route called 'Look Mom, No Friends', but it's in a slightly different location and seems to more closely match the 'Look Mom, Friends' route in the 1981 guide.  I deferred to the precedent of the 1981 guide.

This decent little route combines some crack and face moves.  It appears that any of the various crack/seam systems will take you to the top.  I'm guessing the "Left or Right" crux that's mentioned in the 1981 guide refers to the exit move around the wedged boulder at the top.  This route is also described in the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide.  Maybe kind of soft for 5.8, but I left the rating as described in the original guides.

Easy face climbing on nice, featured rock past two bolts up to a bulge/roof. A finger crack in the bulge leads to a tiny ledge. Follow a finger crack to the top. This route can easily be setup for top-roping, or retrieving an anchor, by an easy walk-up the backside. It is a bit overhanging, though, so having a piece of gear down by the tiny ledge helps keep climbers on top-rope from swinging out into space if they don't make the moves. 

A very fun route consisting of mostly face climbing and laybacking with a crack for protection. Start below the wide hands crack and slab/face climb up using the crack for protection. When the rock steepens, the protection gets small and thin. Climb through the tricky, sequential crux to reach the tight hands crack above. Enjoy crack on the left, good edges on the right face to the top.

 This route can easily be setup on TR by an easy walk-up the backside. This also allows for easy retrieval of anchor gear if leading the route. 

This seldom-visited little 'dome' hosts a few easy, short trad routes (none of the routes are longer than probably 70 feet, if that). Although it is included in the old-school online guide, none of the current guide books even mention this crag (maybe for good reason; it may not be worth the walk over there, unless you have a strong urge to get far, far from the maddening crowd).

 Far Rock is split into two formations by a gully known as the "Great Crevice". The "Great Crevice" is a flat, smooth dirt area between the two formations--it's a great little haunt.  There are two known routes on the west formation:

Tossin' and Flossin' (5.10c/d): A steep crack with a bouldery crux to fun face climbing.

Slammin' and Jammin' (5.10c): Easy, fun face climbing to a crux bulge and finger crack finish.

 There are four routes on the east formation that are listed in the online guide are (from left to right):

Short N' Sweet (5.7): A short low angle face leads to a blocky finish. Didn't look too interesting.

Left or Right (5.8): Fun mix of crack and face.

Look Mom, No Friends (5.7): A sweet fist crack, but sadly too short.

Look Mom, Friends (5.8): We weren't able to confidently identify this climb. At the north end of the east wall, there's a couple of possible crack or face climbs. Where a dilapidated wooden fence leans against the wall, there's a fallen tree just a little farther north. Left of the fallen tree, there's a couple of jugs that may be this route, but looked too short to be a real climb (anyone know about this one?).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Far Rock