This is a variation start to

Anderson...Silva

. I went back today to climb this route and couldn't figure out how I scrambled up the face of this boulder on the FA. So, instead of free soling the outside of the boulder, I climbed the squeeze chimney on the right. Squeeze your way up, and mantel the boulder before entering the P1 chimney of

Anderson...Silva

.

Spider Start

Chuck Liddel

Demetrious "Mighty Mouse" Johnson

Peanut Butter Falcon

Kimbo Slice

Testostikleeze

"Thug" Rose Namajunas

Glass Joe

Ken Shamrock

Christos Anesti

Weili Zhang

Conor McGregor

Anderson "The Spider" Silva

There are 2 ways to start this: one is by scrambling your way 30 feet on a boulder with no gear (5.7ish). The other is to climb the chimney on the right side of the same boulder. At the top of the boulder, enter the chimney, and stem your way up another 50 feet. The climbing is on great rock, but the placements are on bad rock. The moves are secure. Above the chimney, the crack closes to fists then quickly becomes OW/squeeze for the next 60 feet.

P2 has not been yet done. It looks to be a wide chimney that continues for another 80 feet.

This whole thing is kind of strange and cruxy. The start is most difficult as the route angles off, and if you're the right size, it is easy to squeeze up to the top.

P1 starts on thin hands and moves into 0.4/0.5 size fingers. Finish with fist jam and OW moves to gain the ledge.

Start on a splitter OW to a fist-sized roof. Continue up into a flaring squeeze with a finger crack inside.

The hardest but also most obvious moves are at the start. Climb fingers to hands to a ledge, belay here, or continue another 50 feet to top of climb. The second half climbs a lower angle, flaring crack on mostly secure moves.

Climb half face, half crack moves at the start. Work into a pod, and jam your way out on wide fists. Continue up on wide hands/tight OW and past a chunk of mudstone. Finish as you started on half crack, half face moves into a mantel for the final move.

Man, this thing is good! It does not climb like it looks either. Use a full variety of moves, on a full variety of sizes, then work out the corner, and pull around the roof. (This was climbed fully free on TR, the hardest moves are 5.12- and well-protected with gear.)

This is the fastest, shortest way to top out The DCB Tower.

Peanut Butter Falcon

,

Chuck Liddel

, and the descent squeeze tunnel will get you to the start of this short pitch. It tops out a detached tower/buttress (The DCB Tower). This tower also has

Chuck Liddel

, Testostikleeze , and

Weili Zhang

routes on it.

Climb wide fists to OW into the pod, and continue up to the top.

Start by stemming, then move into finger and hand jams to the top.

Depending on your size, the crux is at the start or a little bit after. Climb wide hands to a shallow slot and to the top of this crack.

This is one of my favorite pitches out here! Find the corridor between the UFC Wall and The Conor McGregor Tower. Walk inside, and send the furthest crack in. Climb a variety of jams, stems, and body scumming up this pitch. Get to the logical conclusion of this line, then turn around, and top out the Conor McGregor Tower as a bonus...downclimb back to a slung chockstone, and lower.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in UFC Wall