Variation and the original route of the two. Face climb to the left of the obvious dike running up the face. Work this face until it intersects with the direct version.

Pelican's Dike Original

Pelican's Dike-ination

Solitaire

Bolts for Bobs

Bushwhacker

Spinal Tap

Follow a slopey rounded dike up and left for a few bolts.  Continue straight up on thin reachy crimps and crystals past a couple more bolts to the anchors.

This the major dyke that is located in the middle of the E face.

Follow the rock down & around to the left.  As the ground starts rising a water chute runs up the rock on the right. 

  Climb up the chute with some big crystals to help you out, clipping bolts as you find them.  Once you get on 'top' the bolts end and you get to scramble on easy rock to the summit block.  Stand up & clip the bolt on the summit block, pull the final move(s) to the summit and anchors. 

  Note that the route is rather 'runout' and exposed getting to the last bolt, even though it's probably only 4th class.  Not your typical sport climb. 

  From the top anchors, rap down the face that holds Pelican's Dyke and Xenophenia.  If you're so inclined, set up a TR before coming down...

The rightmost line on the rock (see directions under the rock entry), just up the small hill. 

  Bolts for Bob is a fun route that seems to draw me on each visit to Rushmore.  A fun start leads to a bit of routefinding in the middle, be careful not to make the climb harder...  Eases a bit on top to help with clipping the fixed anchor (2 bolts). 

A great, varied route that starts out with some long reaches and goes into some akward, but fun movements at the top that really make you think.  Stay to the left of the bolts on the large rail.  Going to the right in the water groove is technically off route although you can clip the bolts from there.

A medium sized formation with a couple fun, popular routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Borneo