Every once in a while a new route is put up at a popular crag that is of good quality.  One that for some reason has hidden itself, escaping the eye for decades.  A line that reveals itself only when it chooses.  Dream easy is one such line.

The climb consists of vertical cracks connected by sections of knobs, and face while maintaining a moderate grade. Most parties will face their greatest difficulties on the face sections leaving the security of a crack system for the insecure edges of a granite face.  Or, some may have difficulty with the short chimney on pitch one.  Those who are able to pull through their own personal cruxes and continue upward will be rewarded with an enjoyable four pitch climb that gains good elevation, and ends up a headwall.

Pitch 1) Ascend a short section of knobs without pro (5.8) until a left slanting ledge system is reached.  Climb this ledge and head straight into a short yet ominous chimney.  Easy stemming with good pro will lead you up the chimney until further upward progress is seemingly impossible.  The trick here is to not get stuck deep inside the chimney.  Back out to the edge of the chimney and find a huge jug up and left.  Use this jug to exit the chimney (5.7) and mantle the chock stones that make up the stance for the belay at the bottom of the second pitch.  Belay on gear 2-4 inches.

Pitch 2) Stem and mantle a chock stone directly off the belay and continue up the left slanting ledge system.  Keep your eyes out for a small dike angling up and to the right out on the face.  Traverse this dike passing a bolt.  When the dike ends, connect together thin face moves up toward a tree (5.8).  Traverse the top of a wide flake to the right crossing the top anchors of Duck for Cover.  When the flake runs out, climb a low angle face past two bolts (5.8) to a rounded horn and a gear belay.

Pitch 3) Climb straight up a nice hand crack (5.7).  Before the crack peters out, switch cracks to the left by using knobs (5.7).  Gain the discontinuous crack and climb up past shaky gear to a lower angle section of high quality crack.  Follow this wonderful section of hand jams as the crack angles up and to the right.  Belay at a small stance from bolts.

Pitch 4) The money pitch.  From the belay, step right and into a crack system with intermittent sections of hummock.  Climb up this section until a passage to the right seems possible.  Climb a little higher to find pro, then down climb and traverse the easy, low angle, high quality face.  Gain the crack out right and climb up until good pro is found.  Make a thin move left (5.8) and climb the steep, clean crack up into the headwall.  An excellent lieback (5.8) past a bulge will lead you to the left and the bolted anchor.

Decent:  From the top of pitch 4, make a double rope rappel back to the top of pitch 3.  From the top of pitch 3, make a double rope rappel down a steep section to the top of a chimney.  From the top of the chimney, rappel off bots with two ropes to the ground.  You will want to step way out to the left and away from the bottom of the chimney when pulling your rope to the ground, as the chimney is a rope eater.

Dream Easy

Reed's Erect

Stone Fist

The Remnant-Left Side

Ejesta

The Remnant-Right Side

Dr. Fun Time

Spring Fever

Porter's Pout

The Remnant, Center

Chingando

Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route

Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left)

Ol' 5.10

Children of Light

589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book)

Rocket In My Pocket

Bongs Away, Left

Stone Groove (full)

11c Toprope Arete

Independence Pinnacle, Center

Magical Mystery Tour

Footprints

Stone Groove

Phantom

Arch OW at Bongs Away Left

Flatus

Bong's Away Center

The Iota

Beyond Lunacy

Steppin' Out

The Deer Route

Open Your Eyes

Olga's Trick

Beyond the Fringe

Unnamed 5.9

Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route

Lunatic Fringe

Reed's Pinnacle Left

Scrunchy-Mungy

P1. Start by climbing Reeds Pinnacle to the big ledge.

P2. Climb Bongs Away Left, Center, or Right to the top of the short pillar. From here, the route begins.

P3. Traverse right through easy blocky terrain to a decent ledge at the base of a crack. Belay here.

P4. Climb the short crack as high as you can and place a piece to protect the traverse. Down climb a bit until you can safely traverse right into a nice corner system. Climb as high as you can before placing a piece being mindful of your second and paying close attention to limiting the potential of a nasty pendulum as they negotiate the crux. The second will clean your high piece and down climb. Your first piece after the traverse should be placed high enough to protect their traverse.

P5. Climb a short fist crack to a ramp and belay on a ledge near a tree. This is the pitch 5 anchor to Beyond Lunacy.

P6. One more pitch of knobby face brings you to the anchors above The Rorp, or continue up Beyond Lunacy. Most parties descend from pitch 5 as the rappel anchors for Beyond Lunacy make for an easy retreat. And you can TR Lunatic Fringe when you get down, so there’s that!

Start on top of Reed's pinnacle.  There are two old pitons in a corner, with recently cleaned areas.  Climb to the end of the corner.  Look right for a bolt.  Climb past this to a two-bolt anchor.  Pitch 2.  Climb past a bolt and up to a slab.  Climb the well-protected slab to another two-bolt anchor.  Pitch 3.  The Crux.  climb directly right in the arch, pull out of the arch to spy two bolts.  Climb past the two bolts on very thin climbing, slightly dangerous because you are over a small ledge, up to a break.  There is good pro in the break.  First head left into the arch,  Then up and right.   At the top of the arch hand traverse 30 ft left to a two-bolt anchor.  Pitch 4.  Head left through a small tree into a left-facing corner and up.  Then left to a two-bolt anchor.  Bolts above this may lead to a walk-off.

Rappel route.  The Second rappel requires a directional.

The first pitch was not freeable due to debris.  The third pitch climbing into the arch seemed much harder than 10D.  Moss and Grit.

Climb the large corner crack system to a two-bolt anchor.

Between The Iota and Reed's Pinnacle is a 100' Exfoliation slab, this is The Remnant.

Jamming and liebacking lead up the left side.

First pitch takes a rather uninspiring line straight up some broken rock, mostly easy with a move or two of 5.7.  Belay in a alcove/stance.  The second pitch is fantastic, a 120' double handcrack, then a really airy traverse to the right on positive hands with undercut feet.

Climb a squeeze chimney on the right side.

This is overhanging hand crack which run inside of the  flare.

You do cool and  powerful moves all the way to the anchors.

Stelar. I think it going to be a classic route and 10 years from today it would be several parties waiting in the base.

After new Yosemite book  will include this route- it going to be fourth white strike at Reed's visible from parking lot : Reed's Direct, Lunatic fringe, Stone Grove and Dr. Fun Time.

Until it become classic - expect some  small granite flakes coming out from your feet and hands - while you climb

A slightly overhanging finger and hand crack diagonally splitting an arete.  Sounds awesome, right?

The climbing and protection is really good but the quality of the rock outside the crack is not often traveled.  Take caution around the wedged block at the bottom and the jug/horn before the arete.  The jug/horn is solid but don't grab to the right!

Another note is the anchor situation.  3 old 1/4 inch bolts.  I replaced the webbing (which easily ripped apart with a slight tug), added some biners and even left a #2 camalot as a backup.  I had to dig deep to leave my friend behind.  Free cam to whoever upgrades the anchor!

This is a good seldom done climb.  A must do if you find yourself climbing classics on the eastern side of Reed's.  If you like hand jams, there are a few on this line.  Don't be turned away by the broken and blocky appearance of this line.

The Remnant is the smaller pinnacle that sits between The Iota and Reed's Pinnacle. The center route links together a few minor features on the outer face of formation. It is a reasonably protected lead, but my guess is this thing sees little action other than the occasional toprope by a party that has climbed

The Remnant-Right Side

or

The Remnant-Left Side

.

Start just down and left of the Right Side Route, climb up and right to the top of a large detached block. Here you clip the first bolt and then make a couple moves (5.10+) getting up onto a left-trending ramp. Follow the ramp out onto the center of the face and clip another bolt. Next is the 12a crux - a relatively steep and very blank slab. This section seemed outright impossible to me, but I'm no 5.12 slab climber. Then some good holds lead up to a stance below a seam that diagonals left. One good finger lock and couple marginal sidepull crimps bring you to a final crux (probably 5.11+).

On the far left of Reed's Pinnacle Area is a Huge, detached flake, split by a left leaning crack. This huge flake is known as The Iota. The crack is "Chingando".

The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit".

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...

A Yosemite classic!

The first pitch goes up a short crack that you step into from a ledge. It curves left near the top.

The second pitch is obvious.

The third pitch climbs a chimney/offwidth to the top of the pinnacle.

Rappel off.

P1 : Climb to the base of the flared chimney via not well defined corner/spliter. In upper part of this pitch there some hard,  tricky 5.9 moves in vegitated crack, but you can protect them well.  70 ft. mostly small medium gear. Belay at the small convinient ledge on the left.

P2 : Start as the fist crack, and  then widen to easy chimney (~5.7) for about 25 feet. The crux is short section where chimney narrows to short OW. Transition [turning the lip of small roof] from this OW to fist crack is the crux. You can protect the crux by #6 or #5 friends in ow section and #4 friends is best in the fist crack. After the roof/overhang negotiated - you still have about 50 feet of interesting varied climbing. 5.10b/ ~120 feet . Belay at the tree

P3 : From the tree you can climb 5.9 chimney ( left root) where #6 friend is too small for protection - you need bigger gear like 8-10".

Other option -you can climb  third pitch of Center Route, by  traversing 15 feet right from the tree to splitter crack 5.10a . This crack  started as thin hands and finished 8" OW. Climb any of those variations to the top of Steppin' Out and rappel with one 70m rope ( 4 rappels)

Just to the left of lunatic fringe. The route features knobs, mantles, and some committing movement. Don't fall between the 1st and second bolt otherwise you will deck. I took up a sling to wrap around the knob but unfortunately it probably won't hold.

Bridge up the walls until the third bolt, then swing into the pockets and pull for a few moves until you hit a big rail on your left. Heel hook and use the arete to your advantage until you are at the chains.

A short and fun climb that with the right beta will be cruiser and the wrong beta will make it seem two grades harder.

Start with good fingers or hands before the climb opens up to uncomfortable offwidth (the hard beta) or a lie-back to the first ledge.

Fun stemming up to the chimney for some more comfortable but unprotectable stemming to the anchors.

A thin crack and face problem directly below the Independence Pinnacle. Scramble up a block to start, then a small left-facing feature to a seam on a white face. Make a few hard moves then climb the dirty crack to a big ledge with a bolted rap anchor. This pitch can be used to approach the Independence Center Route and Steppin Out.

Basically a 5.9 route with a V2 boulder problem in the middle of it.

This pitch is a fun and somewhat physical option for those who reach the top of Reed's Direct p2 and still want more - but not quite as much as Reed's 3rd pitch offers.

Fire up steep double cracks at the back of a shallow 'chimney' to pull onto a sloping ledge.  These cracks will alternately take knees, fists, armbars, and handstacks - the shallow chimney provides infinite no hands rests with the right body language.  Before you turn right onto the sloping ledge, gaze at the continuation of the left crack: a hard looking and overhung offwidth.

From the sloping ledge follow the nice crack as it curves up to a roof, which is easily pulled on the featured granite that abounds here.

A great pitch if you're looking for relatively tame, well protected, and non-sustained semi-wide climbing.

P1: (5.10b 80 ft) Climb stone groove for P1 to chain anchor. Then go around to the corner for the second pitch.

P1-Alt: (5.9 80 ft) Climb Stone Fist

P2: (5.9 70ft) Climb offwidth chimney up the notch walking up a #5 and into an enclosure at the top of the pillar to some rap slings. You may want to stop and belay here due to drag. Then come out and climbers left to a more defined crack protected by a #6. Top out and continue right to bolted anchors by a slung tree.

Decent: two raps down off chain anchors

Note:

This climb intersects the top of P1 of the RORP, so you can continue on that climb or climb P1 of it to top rope this chimney.

This is a cool toprope climb with interesting moves that starts out of the big chimney on the first pitch of Reed's Regular Route. To set up the toprope, climb the first pitch of Reed's Regular and then traverse over to the bolted anchor out on the edge of the steep arete.

The climb begins on right-trending rail that comes out of the back of the chimney. Stem to get as high as you can on this rail and then hug the rail and the arete and work your feet on some edges to get up to a jug at the top of the rail. From here you throw a foot on the rail and rock over on it and make a long and desperate reach up left to a crimp. This is the crux. Above this is easier but still challenging face climbing to the top of the buttress.

The Center Route is a fun climb, perhaps not quite as classic as the Left Side or Steppin' Out, but close. It will test your crack technique at all sizes from thin hands to squeeze chimney and requires a bit of a hefty rack if you want to sew it up.

Pitch 1 starts just to the right of the 11c thin crack/seam "Rocket In My Pocket". For the first 30ft you have two options. A squeeze chimney on the left, or a hand crack and knobs just to the right. Neither way is difficult. This will lead to the base of a 5.7 offwidth. Struggle up this until it becomes a chimney. A tree (sometimes with ants) blocks your path at the top of the chimney. Monkey through the tree and follow easy cracks up and left to a large ledge.

Pitch 2 we did as a real rope-stretcher. Again there are a couple different ways to start. The goal is to reach the obvious arching thin-hands splitter on the face just above. A direct approach is somewhat difficult and perhaps not that well protected. I chose to climb up a corner around to the right and then downclimb an easy ramp back down to the left. I did all this without placing pro so I could flip the rope around the corner and had my second follow up the direct start.

The thin hand crack is the crux, and how cruxy it is will depend on the size of your hands. It's over quickly in any case. Follow a left facing corner until you near the roof and then traverse over to the right (try to traverse low). A hanging belay could perhaps be established below the roof if you want to reduce rope drag. Above the roof is a nice splitter that quickly widens from hands to offwidth (10a/b) and then squeeze chimney. There is a nice bolted belay at a stance out on the arete to the right, near the top of the chimney. This gives you the cleanest rappel. Otherwise continue all the way to the top of Steppin' Out (which will make it a 70m pitch if you start from the big ledge atop "pitch 1").

To descend, rappel with two ropes. It is possible to rappel Steppin' Out with one 70m if you stop at a sort of bogus anchor at a dying tree just below the roof. Make the final rappel down Rocket In My Pocket from a bolted anchor (one good bolt, one bad).

Bolted route right of Children of Light, inside chimney.  Technical, thin vertical Yosemite face climbing.

Cool climb up a corner to start. The first 30 feet are the crux. Tight hands and some hard moves at 10b. After that, sustained 5.9 but tons of fun. Cool rock.

Rap chain anchors

Phantom is the nice tips crack behind the Chingando Pillar. The crux comes a little less then halfway when you loose your jams and have to crimp the crack for a few moves. The climb isnt runout if you dial in the gear but it can be real tricky and hard to place. If you mess it up and the gear pulls, your going to deck on the sharp uneven boulders down below. The bolted line to the left is Crossroads, a sport line that shares the same shuts as Phantom. The bolted extension on the arête goes at 13d.

Start is first 25 feet of Bongs Away Left. Than continue another 25 feet of 25 degree left leaning off-width. OW   transition from 6 inch to 3.5 inch . End of the climb is  7 feet horizontal  underling to the anchors.

Flatus is a fun outing on Reed's.  Start up a right trending finger rail that takes good gear between cliffside succulents.  This terminates at an E-Z Squeeze chimney, before you pop back left on a short handcrack to a ledge. 5.8.

2nd pitch goes straight up the corner with fun stemming, jamming, smearing, scumming and chimneying.  Sweet!  Corner changes directions on fists at the top and then you enter another squeeze which deposits you on another big ledge.

The climb continues up for several more wide pitches...

Rappel the route (first two) with a single 60m off tat anchors.

Flatus!

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flatu…

A nice, clean, less than vertical splitter OW that gradually goes from 3" - 6".  A great intro to Valley wide climbing and knee jamming.  Use long slings, back clean, or don't place anything on the traverse.  Crux is pure 5" crack, by the time it opens to 6" knobs appear and the business is over.  I see it listed usually as 5.10a, but compared to other OW's I'd say it's 5.9.

The regular route up the Iota is a fun chimney climb. This combined with

The Deer Route

and

The Remnant-Right Side

makes for a great circuit of spelunking adventures. The start is approached by scrambling up and around the left side of the Iota. Here you will enter into a great chimney which divides the Iota from the main wall. Crossroads is a bolted 5.13 face which can be found in this chimney.

Start with a boulder problem and mantel to get into a tunnel which leads out onto the face and the top of Chingando (this is also how you can access a TR setup for Chingando). Climb straight up the obvious chimney to the top. There's not any pro.

To get down, either rappel from slings, or walk to the back left side of the Iota and make a short steep downclimb (there should be a fixed rope with knots tied in it that you can "batman" down).

Trip Report with photos

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-Iota-Chimney-A-Super-Awesome-Must-Do-5-4-in-Yosemite/t11362n.html

A fun adventure to the top of Reeds. Good climb to do during Fall and Winter months. If it has not rained or snowed for over a week, there is a good chance the route will be easily climbable. Since it is only seven pitches, it does not require an alpine start. The protection is adequate and quality of climbing is really good. The 11c crux could be easily aided with a few tiny cams. A nice addition to the area.

Pitch 1: 150 ft 5.10c: The super classic Lunatic Fringe. Climb a right leaning hand-crack for about 25 feet and continue up to double cracks. Do a reachy transition from left to right (crux for many) and continue up. It varies from thin to perfect hands and after a wide pod becomes thin for a few moves. Fortunately the thin sections are not very sustained and there are good stances to place gear. As the crack narrows down make a step left to a jug.

Pitch 2: 80 ft 5.10c: From a bolted belay step left into a thin crack and stem/jam through most difficulties. Thank yourself for bringing a 0 and 00 C3 piece, or something else that fits. Delicate moves take you to a flexing thank god jug. Few more cruxy moves bring you to easier ground. This pitch is pretty fun and delicate. Easier face climbing take you up and left, past a tree, to another bolted belay.

Pitch 3: 160 ft 5.9: Step left and around a corner to a right leaning handcrack in a corner. It is not long and you pass a big grassy ledge before reaching another system. Great crack in a corner on the left, and another good looking one just to the right. I took the left crack and loved it. Continue past another ledge and up a short chimney with a crack in the back.

Pitch 4: 170 ft 5.10c: Make a few committing moves to the top of a good knob and clip a first bolt. Continue up clipping a few more till holds disappear for a few moves (crux). Friction up and left to an arête and pass a roof. I traversed the roof from left to right. Continue up easier knobs and do a few more difficult moves till you reach the belay (bolted).

Pitch 5: 180ft 5.10b: From the belay step right and up an arete. You can either sling the knobs for pro or place gear in a right facing corner around. Sling a knob above the roof and figure out the sequence to the top of this knob (crux). Don't knock your sling off the knob in the process, like I did. Easier climbing takes you past a few more knobs and a piton. Clip another bolt before an easier roof and climb pretty much straight up a sea of knobs to another bolted belay.

Pitch 6: 130 ft 5.11c: Climb up from the belay towards a left leaning underling. Traverse under it and get into a chimney. Stem out of the flare to pass a roof into a traversing edge. Crank through this not so juggy section and onto a good ledge. Shake out and prepare yourself for first knuckle jamming, stemming and lie backing up a left facing corner (crux). FFA was done with it wet and it was rated 5.11c. Seemed like a 5.11b when dry. Thin gear is really nice to have here. After you are done with the crux continue left under an overhang. Watch your feet and don't slip on the munge.

Pitch 7: 90 ft 510.d/5.11a. From the belay climb over an overhang and establish yourself on a knob from which you can clip the first bolt. Mantle to the top of the bolt and clip another one. Last cruxy move will put you above the difficulties. Make a small traverse left to a pod and mantle up to easy slab. Don't fall here and hike up to a tree with rap slings. If you intend on going to the top bring some more webbing to back up the slings that by now been roughed up by the animals. Or at least back up the anchor for the first (hopefully heavier) person to rappel. Enjoy the views from the top of Reed's and get down in time to buy some beer, or prune juice.

DESCENT: Two 60 M ropes. Rappell the route. Webbing on top of the formation might be damaged by animals, so bringing some extra might be nice.

The first two pitches you probably forget next day , but you have to climb them to approach business pitch

P1. Start from right side of the tree, (20 feet left from start of Ejesta) follow thin crack than face moves to wide crack up to the tree with rappel slings. 130 feet. 5.7-5.8 depending of what you are doing

P2. Traverse left to the corner and climb the corner crack to horn/small pinnacle with the slings . This is top of p2 of Independence Center which share same path with Steppin' Out up to this point. Continue up the corner to the big Bay tree wedged in the crack. Last 30 feet of the corner has a loose rotten rock and it better to avoid it by climbing thin hands crack right of the corner. Surmount the  overhanging tree with heel hook and belay there. You can place there medium gear #1, #2 cams and safe big gear for last pitch. 100 feet of 5.8-5.9 depending of what you are doing

P3. You Stepping out from the tree  to overhanging right leaning impressive 90 feet OW. Except of first 10 feet of 4" fist crack - it is  5-6" and your knee is In all the way with some exceptions. There are few short sections where your knee do not fit well and this is a cruxes. For my knee size I counted this tree times. There is at least 3 good rests where you can stay forever shaking hands and legs. You can protect the climb very well.

Walking #5/6 cam is possible all the way, but it did not worked for me. Since crack  overhanging and both feet was most of the time in the crack - rope was constantly stack between feet and edge of the rock and it was big pain and tremendous efforts to move Cam above your head, so I give up and just climbed it normal way.

This is a fun caving adventure up the inside of the Reed's Pinnacle. It's a good pick for a warm day, or as a night-climb since you need a headlamp anyways. It's possible to start it either from the Left Side route, or from a hole in the wall at the start of P2 of the Direct route. Starting from the Direct route is probably the more classic option.

The chimney is straightforward for the most part. You can follow the inside of the Reed's Direct crack for a ways, but eventually you need to traverse left because the top of the chimney is capped by a bunch of chockstones. Don't place gear too high or you'll probably get terrible rope drag later on, and I'd worry about the ropes dislodging loose stuff from under the chockstone roof.

The exit is directly below the "tunnel through" on P3 of the Regular Route. This section is a bit of a squeeze. This "crux" defies all conventions of the Yosemite Decimal System, so it's hard to put a grade on. I'm a lightweight at 130lbs, and wiggled through no problem. I think it's tighter than the Narrows on the S-S, so if you found that claustrophobic you'll probably have a hard time with this one. In any case, you can either end the climb atop the large ledge to the right, or continue the traverse up and left if you want to finish on the Regular Route to the top of the pinnacle.

A most excellent Trip Report with lots of photos can be found here

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-DEER-Route-A-Yosemite-Reverse-Spelunking-Adventure/t11782n.html

Start left of Children of the Light by stemming up to the massive chockstones.

Pass these on the right placing pro, stemming, and liebacking.

Traverse right out the roof crack, passing the anchors of Children, and Footprints, and continue out right and out the Bombay slot, stemming up to an anchor.

Spectacular pitch!

This is kind of an obscure route that is totally worth doing. It's up and left of the Iota and a bit of a pain to get to. If it were in a more visible location it would probably get climbed all the time.

The guidebook shows a 5.9 pitch starting just left of the Iota which leads directly to the base of the main crack. I've not done this approach pitch and it's probably not worth it. To reach the base of the real climbing, scramble up and left of the Iota as you would do to access the big chimney behind it (and the start of the original Iota route, a great 5.4 caving adventure). Before you reach the chimney behind the Iota, you will see a nice looking crack up a left-facing corner. This is Olga's Trick.

The climb starts up a somewhat dirty chimney and then turns a bulge into the excellent corner. The crack varies from hands to fingers and eats up gear. I thought the crux was a thin section about half way up where you crimp some sidepulls out on the face for a move or two before getting more fingerlocks. The guidebook puts the crux at the steep thin hands section at the end just before turning the roof. Above, claw your way up some munge-filled grooves to the top of the cliff.

The rap tree depicted in the topo has since died, fallen over, and is now perched somewhat precariously near the edge of the cliff. Someone seems to have improvised a solution by cutting off a length of their rope to tie off and extend another tree about 25 ft back from the edge of the cliff. This is backed up by a stopper behind a flake. Rappel from this anchor with two ropes to reach the ground. It is also possible to make two rappels with one rope, stopping at the anchor for Danger Will Robinson (10d). This is a cruddy 2 bolt anchor (backed up by a nut I added) just below a roof.

This is an interesting pitch that sits atop its much more famous cousin, Lunatic Fringe.

From the LF belay stance, step left to a seam that opens into a thin crack. Delicate moves lead past small (but solid) pro until you make your way past the crux sequence. The first ~40 ft of climbing off the belay felt sustained.

Half way up the pitch the nature of the climbing changes and the difficulty tapers off. Cruise up to the ledge above, where you can either rap back to the LF anchor or continue up the excellent Beyond Lunacy.

This is an unnamed wide crack between RORP and Flatus.

Ascend the first pitch of RORP, a 5.5 chimney in a corner 15 feet to the left of Stone Groove. Arrive at a ledge with a tree. RORP pitch 2 continues up the vegetated gully on the right.

The unnamed crack is on the left. It is a 4-6 inch-wide right-leaning, arching crack up a steep lichen-covered wall.

A burly lieback move gains the crack followed by fist/OW moves higher up.

End at a large sloping ledge, the top of Flatus P2.

One can do this in a single pitch or break it into two short (60 foot?) pitches.

This is a meandering route that features primarily 5.8 hands, stemming, etc.  The highlight of the route is definitely the awesomely bizarre and incredibly fun squeeze tunnel at the third pitch.  It will make you feel what it's like to be a nut jammed in a perfect constriction.

On the final pitch, once you're on the sloping ledge, don't continue up left, but traverse right onto easier ground.

You could do the last two pitches (tunnel and 5.9 hands) after topping out on Reed's Direct, if you were so inclined.

My favorite line on this wall.  Lunatic is a varied climb that has many different cruxes, so depending on your strengths you will likely find a different crux than your partner.  Fantastic rock that demands finger locks, liebacking, thin hands and some face moves.  Well protected throughout.

Pitch 1 takes the cavernous looking back and foot chimney to a stance at some slung chockstones.

Pitch 2 follows the 5"-7" wide crack in the back of a left facing dihedral to a ledge where the tunnel thru on the Reed's regular route emerges. From here one may escape to easier ground by working right above the short hand crack, or stay left for full value and finish with a short bit of 5.9 OW to the top of Reed's Pinnacle.

30 feet horizontal crack about 12-15 feet from the ground.

Can be bolder problem with ugly landing, but well protected as a trad route.

Can go both directions from left to right and vise versa, although I prefer from right to left.

Has very interesting moves - finger tips, hand jams, fists, to hands stacks and chicken wing.

Vinita spotted this line while we were hanging in the base of Stone Grove

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Reed's Pinnacle