Start at the gully left of Wrinkles in Time.

P1. Climb the gully to a steep headwall.  Crank a difficult overhang and continue up sustained slab climbing to a bolted anchor. 11a, 100', 10 bolts.

P2. Climb some heady slab moves to the top. 11c if you follow the bolts, easier if you use the corner to the right. 6 bolts.

Stained Glass

Wet Dreams

Whippers in Time

Broken Dreams

Dreamscape

Jake's Problem

Soul on Ice

Route between Timeless and Gully Washer

Tales of Power

Dry Ice

Wrinkles in Time

Phantasmagoria

Long Lost Dreams

Red Limit

Journey to Ixtlan

Simone Has Dreams

Short Dreams

A Brief Waste of Time (submitted as Unknown between Brief History & Timeless)

Air Bud

Flying Vee

Peanut Butter Doobie Time

Disillusioned Reality free variation

Gully Washer

Sea of Dreams

A Brief History of Time

Timeless

Wrinkled Glass

Down, Not Out

This route starts in the approach gully, right of

Soul On Ice

and left of

Stained Glass

. Difficult moves past a bolt (plus an optional TCU placement) lead to some slabby climbing, then the business. The dihedral breaks left and steepens, necessitating creative undercling/lieback moves for 15 feet. A difficult reach to the left to escape the flake is the final crux.

Wet Dreams climbs up a black streak about 15' right of Gully Washer.  It has been retro-bolted and can now be done as a lead climb.  It is the highest, right-most climb on the wall.  It is not in D'Antonio's guidebook.

This variation had been looked at for some time.  Despite interest it had never been bolted....  Well, now it is.  Three shiny bolts protect the new and somewhat direct start to '

Wrinkles in Time

.'  Climb the suprisingly fun, overhanging arete to the second or (better for rope drag) third bolt on '

Wrinkles in Time

.'

It is a glorified boulder problem with the added bonus of climbing the rest of '

Wrinkles

.'  I hope people will enjoy it.  For hardmen sportos out there wanting to work on it, I sincerely hope you find it to be fun.  However, please keep in mind that it shares chains with the best warm-up in the area and a popular route for people of all abilities.

The grade I suggested may be totally off.  That's about what we felt it was after doing it a few times.

Scramble up to the start.  Fire cool moves up the face via the rib to a white streak and a deep hueco over the lip.  It is less scary than it looks.

This is the furthest left route on Dream Dome. Access by rappelling down from a tree at the top of Dream Dome, or by climbing up the approach gully left of

Wrinkles In Time

.  Climb slabs and friction up an obtuse corner to a tree at the top. This has great quality rock, but it is an inconsistent and unexciting line.

This is the warm-up line on the same formation as

Lost Dreams

.  Multiple variations end at the flake jug at the lip on the north aspect of the cluster. Just below is Short Dreams, a nondescript boulder with several compression problems.

This route starts in the approach gully, right of

Sea of Dreams

and left of

Dry Ice

(an obvious, left-facing, corner system.) An absolutely amazing arete route on perfect granite. If you don't like this one, you might as well cut short your visit to Dream Canyon and give up. The route is sustained and excellent throughout.

There is a manky 4-bolt climb between

Timeless

and

Gully Washer

.  It almost seems like a half-finished route.  The first bolt is about 20 feet off the deck, but the first 3 bolts are all within like 8 feet of each other... then another run-out through dirty rock leads to the final bolt which is followed by a sharp traverse left to the

Timeless

anchors.  This is just terrible.  We got on this route initially thinking it was

Gully Washer

(as it's currently the first route to the right of

Timeless

).  Boy, what a mistake.  Avoid this route!  Is it a joke?  Is it half finished?

This is the THIRD sport climb down from the top, right-most climb:

Highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang:

Wet Dreams

Nearly the same start:

Gully Washer

20' below them, at the big pine tree, this crap climb up the trough with high first bolt.

It is not in D'Antonio's guidebook.

Start 70' uphill from

Wrinkles in Time

at a slab leading to a right-facing corner capped by a roof.

P1. Climb up right to a small roof and pull it on the right. Layback up to a right-facing corner, then move left and up past a roof to a 2-bolt anchor on the slab. 11b, 80', 9 bolts.

P2. Climb up the slab on an obvious black waterstreak to a 2-bolt anchor. Delicate friction climbing and manteling. 11a, 70', 7 bolts.

Wrinkles in Time is one of the best (and most moderate) routes that Dream Canyon has to offer.  Granite reminiscent of Yosemite, thoughtfully placed bolts, and cool exposure combine to make this a true classic. The route tackles the nose of the Dream Dome buttress in 2 pitches.

The first, beginning at the low point of the formation, climbs a large flake, a short fingercrack (crux), and a long section of juggy face  climbing. After ~100 feet, the leader reaches a comfortable stance with a 2-bolt belay.

The second pitch, shorter and easier at ~50 feet and 5.7, climbs straight up from the belay and bypasses a short overhang on the way to another 2 bolt anchor.

Those with a 60 meter rope can make 2 rappels to the ground from here.  Otherwise, top out and descend the gully.

Good crack climbing, excellent rock.  Begin 15 feet down and left from Tales of Power.  Look for a bolt.

P1. Climb corners and roofs just left of Tales of Power (11a, 3 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). The second bolt is difficult to clip until you position yourself correctly, then it is easy.  The crux is in moving past the second bolt. This is all rather tricky.

P2.  Discontinuous cracks lead upward (10a, 2 bolts plus gear to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet).

This route is easily done as one long lead.  Belay from the top, then rappel twice.

This is powerful and fun.  The FA of Lost Dreams V 5-6 (stand start, dihedral finish) was done by Eric on TR, due to back-breaker blocks. I added a sit start off the double underclings and a finish out the rail/fin to create Long Lost Dreams, also on TR.  Good spots and pads could make it a vaguely safe proposition without a rope, maybe.

Start from obvious flat edges or undercling sit.  Bust up the crack to a horizontal.  Fuss up the splitter finger crack and turn the lip at the dihedral or out the fin.

Begin 30 feet right from

Tales of Power

at a left-facing corner.  Climb easily past three bolts, then make very difficult moves into a shallow dihedral. Tips lieback up the dihedral (12a), gain an undercling and master a second crux (12c A0, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet).  This has steep, strenuous, thin, excellent rock all the way.  Who will redpoint this beauty?  I could not pull it off, but I'm just an old guy.

Journey to Ixtlan is an alternate second pitch to

Tales of Power

. Climb the slab to the right of

TOP's

second pitch and rejoin it at the anchor. This is not very sustained or particularly interesting, except for a few moves to pull a small roof.

This is a fun and powerful boulder problem, but it is advisable to rig it as a TR (gnarly landing zone and no easy exit).  Locate the dark streak/seam/crack fifteen feet right (up gully) from the start of

Red Limit

and straight down from a tree on a ledge/alcove.  Bust out pinches and side-clings to hit the mid-way tooth-horn.  From here, punch left to jugs or power up the flare. A sit start is possible.

SDS matched low on the right arête. Move up through a few compression moves, and top out.

This is a weird new route squeezed just right of

A Brief History of Time

. The crux may be a lot harder if you don't use the right wall of the finger crack as a sidepull. Its rating is a ?, since who knows how you're "supposed" to climb it!

SDS on the two vertical seams. Make a big move to a high left jug and a gaston then move up to a solid topout. Watch out for a right heel dab at the start depending on your approach. There are many ways to start this thing.

A fun pitch, but the lack of decent pro makes it a better toprope than a lead.

Start between Sea of Dreams and Soul On Ice at a V-shaped dihedral with an old bolt.  Climb the corner with some nice stemming moves and angle right at the top to the anchor shared with Soul On Ice and Dry Ice.

Start as far left as possible and traverse right along the juggy flakes. Midway up the wall, layback up the large, central flake to a high topout.

Variation: use the same start, but continue right along the juggy flakes past a small tree, and top out on the far right ledge.

Climb to the second bolt of

Tales of Power

. Follow the cracks that lead to the notch in the roof next to the fixed pins of original aid ascent. Turn the roof into the dihedral, undercling the next small roof, follow the line of weakness, and run it out to the anchors of

Tales of Power

.

The second route encountered when walking down the gully on Dream Dome's right flank. Climb some slabby but fun rock past several bolts and lower.

This is the SECOND sport climb down from the top, right-most climb. The highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang is

Wet Dreams

. This climb has nearly the same start, but goes more straight up.

Climb an arete/dihedral system on the far left side of Dream Dome (you must scramble up the gully to find the start). The first 30 feet of the route are high quality and sustained (though awkward).  However, the dome slabs out considerably above, and the climbing begins to wander strangely. This could use an anchor at ~50 feet.

Just down the gully from

Gully Washer

locate a hand crack in a right-facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face...where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack...follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep, finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.

Eds.

Dale Haas and Bruce Hildenbrand bolted a direct finish to the route. At the third bolt, instead of traversing right into the hand crack, go straight up past two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. The climbing is in the 5.9+/5.10- range.

Begin at the base of

A Brief History of Time

, but climb up and right in a scoop to the top of a semi-detached pillar.  From there, follow the bolts up and right making several tricky slab moves.  A nice addition to the wall.

This is the FOURTH sport climb down from the top, right-most climb:

Highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang:

Wet Dreams

Nearly the same start:

Gully Washer

20' below them, at the big pine tree, the crap climb up the trough with high first bolt:

Route between Timeless and Gully Washer

20' farther down, this route.

Anyone have the name and first ascent info?

This is a 1-pitch trad line in between

Stained Glass

and

Wrinkles in Time

.

Start as for

Wrinkles in Time

until you clip its first two bolts, continue straight up a pillar with good hand cracks on both sides for about 20 feet, then follow a left-leaning groove/gully aiming for the 1st pitch anchor of

Stained Glass

.

The crux felt to be the first few moves of

Wrinkles in Time

, but the rest of the climb is enjoyable and could get better with some more traffic.

(It's possible that this has been climbed before, since the line is kind of obvious when rappelling from

Wrinkles in Time

. I couldn't find anything about it on MP or any of the guidebooks. So if anyone has details, I'd be happy to update the route name/FA info.)

Crank up dishes and pinches.  The crux is psychological and pulling the first few moves.  The line avoids the crack and block to the right.  The blocks above have some fun and very easy lines, undoubtedly climbed many times before.  On the same bench as Down, Not Out, find Diversion, a fun traverse from left to right that has two possible exits by way of the obvious flakes/cracks (V2).

Description

Protection

Routes in Dream Dome